Saturday, November 28, 2009

I'm here in the paradise of havlock island in south india. No Internet access so am sending via text. Life is great here. I'm spending time with a British family and and a man from italy. I love it here and don't want to leave. Life is very simple and I'm staying in a shack on the beach. I'm very happy and in love with this part of India. Back to Calcutta in a few days. I'll have much more to report when I get back online. Love to all!

Thursday, November 26, 2009

Happy Thanksgiving!

I am missing my friends and family tonight and wish I was with you eating turkey and potatoes. Oh man do I ever wish I was eating turkey and potatoes, stuffing, cranberry sauce, pumpkin pie....

I have already lived Thursday and everyone at home is just getting up and putting the turkey in the oven. I am going to an Indian wedding celebration in Calcutta that starts at 9 pm. I'm in a very fancy hotel and look forward to being one of 400 guests at the party. There are supposed to be Indian dancing girls, good food and WINE. I miss wine too....

Sunday, November 22, 2009

New Light India and The Soma Girls


http://www.newlightindia.org/hogar-meridional.html

Please take a few minutes and have a look at the New Light India website. They are doing amazing work in the Calcutta community giving education, healthcare, micro lending and so much more. There are easy links to help out either by volunteering or by donating what you can if you are so inclined. There are also photos of the lovely girls on this link.

Saturday, November 21, 2009

The road to Darjeeling

I am here in the mountains of Darjeeling on a crisp, cold morning. We flew in yesterday afternoon and made arrangements for a jeep to take us up the mountains to this beautiful area. There are many monasteries and you can see the Himalayas from here. It was dark when we got in last night and this morning I woke up to the most gorgeous view from the windows of my simple, sweet (cold!) little room. There has been some political upset here and there have been road closures and strikes the last few days.

We shared our jeep with a nice German fellow named Jerry. We got to know him pretty well after the 4 hour ride, sharing our most embarrassing and interesting travel stories. Jerry is very funny and lives in Singapore and works as a banker. He came and had dinner with us last night at the restaurant here at our little hotel. After dinner we came upstairs to the sitting room where there is a fireplace and it's so cozy. There is a group of Norwegians here who are medical students doing an exchange here in India who are delightful. They played cards and we and drank rum with them until late into the night. It feels so good to be among other travelers and find out more about what's going on in the world. In Calcutta I was very focused on the girls at Soma Home and didn't have much experience beyond that. But the experience was rich and full and I so loved my time with the girls. It was very hard to leave. I bonded with many of them, especially the older ones and we cried when we had to say goodbye. For now. I'll see them again soon and feel very committed to doing what I can to help at New Light India and at Soma Home.

Today we will go and check out Darjeeling and see what's here. There is a Snow Leopard preserve, a zoo, some shops and lots of hiking to be done.

I met a woman in Calcutta named Christina who is very worldly and is a big supporter of New Light and many, many other causes. She is Greek and has lived in Hong Kong and India for many years. She is friends with Angelina Jolie and they do charity work together. She has connections all over the world and told me to call her from anywhere if I need anything at all. That is a nice comfort to have. She also got me in touch with her friend who lives here in Darjeeling and owns a tea plantation. His name is Raj and Raj has invited April and I to come and stay at his plantation for a few days and see what tea production looks like. I am very excited to go and check it out.

We will fly back to Calcutta on the 26th, then out again to the Andaman Islands on the 27th. Back to Calcutta on December 2 where I'll spend a few more days before going up to Varanasi.

This trip has been such an amazing experience so far. I love it. I feel very much alive and vibrant out here in the world, hearing so many languages, seeing so many different kinds of faces. Especially now that I'm not feeling so crappy. There are times when I wonder if this is all really happening, or if it's just a dream. I hope it's the real thing :)

Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Calcutta Thursday

A quick stop at a dusty little internet cafe off the crazy streets of Calcutta. I am out shopping for some Henna and to refill my cell phone card. I bought some cute little hair bands for all the girls and some chocolate. I am going to check the possibility of ordering pizza tomorrow night before I leave. That will be quite a treat if I can pull it off.

I got up early and went out with some of the girls for some exercise before they went to school. We went several blocks to Elephant Park to do some stretching and walking. It was nice. I love walking the streets with the girls. People are really curious about what this blond American girl is doing with teenage Indian girls. They all stop and stare. When we were at the park we had a nice little crowd on the street staring in at us. It was funny.

Off to Darjeeling on Saturday and looking forward to some clean air and to see more of India.

Monday, November 16, 2009

India and me

When I arrived in Calcutta, I was feeling like a little bit of a seasoned traveler, having been on the road for a month. Feeling just a little cocky. But that was quickly knocked out of me. Calcutta is unlike any experience I have ever had in life.

Every one of my senses was attacked at once. The smells, the sights, the tastes, the feeling of hot, stickiness on my body, the emotions of trying to process it all. Everything at once. It's all a little too much. I haven't felt well since I've been here and maybe part of it is my body going into survival mode. I feel like there is a hot, heavy blanket over me, over my head. I am exhausted by 2 in the afternoon and need to lay down and rest. My body is not handling the food or water and nothing stays inside for long. I am trying my best to stay hydrated and finding something I can eat, which isn't easy.

I had to go and check myself into a western hotel for a couple of days so I could get some rest and some food. And then grappling with feelings of guilt for doing this, knowing that what I am spending on a hotel could do so much for the girls at Soma Home. As I was laying my my bathtub at the Taj Bengal Hotel, soaking away the dirt and grime and sweat off of my body, I was asking myself what I am doing here in India. Why did I come, what did I think I was going to accomplish?

The answer is that I guess I wanted to test myself in some way. I am newly independent and wanted to know that I have strength to be on my own. I also wanted to help my fellow human beings in the world who need help, and I am in a position to give my time and energy here in India. But I just don't know how much I can do. I wanted to "do" something. To have a goal of teaching English or Yoga and leaving something behind for the girls at Soma Home. I have done some of that, but it doesn't look the way I thought it would and I now realize that that's ok.

I am doing what I am capable of, and that may be just sitting and spending time with the girls. They will remember their time with me and they will remember me in the photos I leave behind. They love having their photos taken and I will get them all printed out so they can keep them.

I feel like the girls have given so much to me and helped me heal some very old wounds. It's a big process. I feel like I have triumphed and I feel like I have failed all at the same time. I am struggling with my role in all of this.

I am refreshed now after a few days break and can go back to Soma Home and be more fully there for the girls before I leave on Saturday. I plan to travel with April Mazzuca, a volunteer here from Canada to Darjeeling and then down to the Andaman Islands before I fly to Varanasi to help at Buddha's Smile School. That will be another tough, emotional gig to be sure.

I am learning a lot about who I am and what I need to do to take care of myself. Some huge-ass lessons learned in India. And much more to come...

Sunday, November 15, 2009

Some of the girls of Soma Home










Calcutta and Soma Home

When I asked what India is like, a yoga teacher of mine said to me "India is in your face". He was right.

My first morning at Soma Home, I went upstairs for breakfast, which is eaten on one of the children's beds in a main sleeping room, which also serves as the food prep area and kitchen. The nice women there made me an egg, some rice, some toast and tea.

The 30 or so girls are basically in 3 age groups, small, middle and big girls and all go to school at different times so some are almost always at home. There are just a few hours in the day when all is quiet. I wasn't really sure what I was supposed to do, so after breakfast I went up to the roof to do a little stretching and reflecting amidst the laundry hanging there to dry. All around the neighborhood you can see people cooking outside, babies crying, people talking and bathing outdoors. Smoke and pollution fill the hot, humid air. There is no air conditioning in the house, just fans going all the time. My body is not used to this heat. I always feel sweaty and sticky and dirty.

When the small kids came home from school we read some stories on the roof before having our tea. There is a nice little library there with some great american classic stories. We read a story about Barbie and one Sesame Street book.

The middle and big girls came home later and we talked a lot, they showed me photos of their families and later on we all danced, which we do every night. Dancing is big here and is an important form of communication. The girls showed me an incredible Bengali dance that is the story of the goddess Kali, which Calcutta is named after. They where heavy bells on their ankles and the dance is amazing and beautiful. Then they all sat down and told me to dance for them. I think it was so they could get to know who I am. I'm not sure if they were impressed or not. Probably not :)

Dinner is eaten about 9:30 pm, bedtime at 10. I'm not liking that at all and have not been having dinner the last several nights. It's just too late to eat and too damn hot. And my stomach is not boding well with the food here.

There are several women in the house who take care of the girls and do the cooking and cleaning. There is one woman whos only job is to take care of me, it seems. I call her Godi Mashi, which is Mother in Bengali. She cleans my room and washes my clothes and gets me anything I need. She used to work the streets of Calcutta as a prostitute, I"m told. She doesn't speak any english but she is very funny and we manage to communicate just fine. I feel like I have known her before.

On the second day I was there, I went to New Light, run by the same people who run Soma Home, and is a shelter for the children of the red light district, and is above a brothel. It was very intense. There are some volunteers there from Argentina who were distributing clothing to the kids and I helped with that. It was like Christmas. The kids were so happy to have some new clothes. Even though they were gently used.

In the afternoon, I went with the nurse to the medical clinic called New Light II that serves the lowest caste people in the city. They are the ones who clean the garbage and burn the bodies of the dead. This was probably a bit too much to do so soon after I arrived. It was all just a little too much to process. I have never seen people living like this or even imagined it was possible. The poverty and living conditions are beyond appalling.

I like having my little sanctuary at Soma Home and love the girls so much. They have been through a lot but are so loving and sweet. They always make sure I am served first and given the best portions of everything. I know they like having me there and they keep asking me to stay. They said I should bring Taylor and Julian to live there too.

This whole experience so far is making me take a hard look into my soul and try and answer some pretty deep questions about life. I let you all know if I find some answers here.

Friday, November 13, 2009

The Soma Home for Girls

Just want to let everyone know that all is well here in Calcutta. As well as it can be, I suppose. Computer access is limited so am not online as much as I'd like.

Life is hard here and I have not quite found my groove. My mind cannot process all that I see and all that I'm going through.

My friend Ingrid asked me why I came on this journey; what I hoped to accomplish and what my goals were. I have been thinking about this a lot and will share my thoughts on my blog soon.

For now I must get ready to go to a performance that the girls are doing to celebrate Children's Day, which is a big deal here.

Last night they were practicing and insisted that I wear a Sari. It was so cool and it too forever to drape me in the fabric. I'll post photos soon.

My love to everyone!

Tuesday, November 10, 2009

Reflections on Nepal

Before I get too mezmorized with India, i want to process as well as I can, my experience in Nepal. It was a very important time in this journey. It was a time when I was really on my own after traveling for 2.5 weeks with a large group of people. I cried a lot at that time of change but then quickly got into my own groove.

I made incredible new friends that will last a lifetime and feel very happy about my time there and the places I went and things I saw. But i also learned an important lesson, and that is that I need to take care of myself emotionally a little better.

I went on this journey with my heart wide open. A little too wide it seems. I have found that when my heart is that open, people want something from me because they can see that i am willing to give it. Whether it's money, or time, or making other commitments. I wanted to do it all and I ended up empty. Emotionally and physically. And it made my body out of balance and sick. I'm glad i learned this now because here I am in a country that many times worse than Nepal as far as poverty and people living in terrible conditions and needing help. I want to do as much as I can but still take care of myself. And with the heat and the pollution here it sort of ampliphies everything. I have felt totally run down since i got here. I'm not eating much and am feeling very out of sorts. I"m sleeping a lot too. I hope i'll find my strength and my groove. I am in love with the girls here at Soma Home and am really happy to be here. They are each very special to me already. The women who cook here are very concerned about why I'm not eating more and think I don't like their cooking.

Tomorrow I'm going to visit the Kali Temple with another volunteer from Canada. Her name is April and I think we will make good traveling partners. We will get out of the city next weekend to someplace a little cleaner and quieter, like maybe Darjeeling. I am longing for a really good cheeseburger and a glass of red wine....yum....oh, and some ice cream. Yeah, that would hit the spot.

We're living in pretty meager conditions here at Soma Home. Very basic. All cooking is done on the floor of a bedrrom over a kerosene stove and it's certainly not the most sanitary. I'm scared to death to get sick from the food or water or the mosquitos but so far it's the pollution thats really getting to me. There is something burning in this city all the time, whether it's garbage, dead bodies, tires, who knows....

Monday, November 9, 2009

I'm in India!

I am finally in India. Wow...after all the years I have been thinking about India and all the months of planning...I'm here.

My flight from Kathmanmdu was fine and quick. Got through customs quickly and Arnab was there to meet me. We drove about 45 minutes to get to Soma Home and the girls were all there to meet me. About 30 beautiful faces surrounding me, ranging from age 6 to about 16. They first put a dot of white paint on my forehead, sprinkled marigold petals in my hair, put a marigold lei around my neck, and then put a sugary treat in my mouth and said "Welcome to Soma Home". It was so great.

I was shown my room which is very sweet and small and nicely furnished. My bathroom is next door and has real hot water in the shower. What a treat. i got cleaned up and then was invited upstairs for dinner. They gave me way too much food but it was delicious. The girls are amazing. Most speak English pretty well and they are so curious about me and my life and where I'm from. They are excited to do yoga and practice English and do some sewing and art project together. i feel so happy to be here and I think it will be great.

It's late and I'll go to bed so I can be fresh to see what tomorrow brings. I am feeling much better tonight. I got an accupuncture treatment from Roseanna before leaving Kathmamdu today and some homeopathic medicine from a doctor there.

i cried so much when I had to say goodbye to everyone. But it's all part of the journey...

Saturday, November 7, 2009

Sick and Tired

As my friend Ginny says, all travel has it's ups and downs. After so much up time, I am now experiencing a big downer. I have been feeling really good on this trip with no concerns, but things are catching up with me now. I have an awful cold and my head feels all dizzy and airy and I can't turn my head very fast. My eyes are dry and red and my throat is scratchy. I think all the Kathmandu dust, dirt and pollution is catching up with me. No wonder so many people cough and spit and are constantly sick here.

I'm at the monastery drinking honey ginger tea and listening to the sounds of the cafe and people talking outside. I am supposed to be going to the monkey temple today with Kiran's wife Sushilla and other friends but wondering if I should cancel everything and go to Dolma's and rest up for my flight tomorrow.

Roseanna and I went to Sunita's home for lunch yesterday and then for a very long trek up to a hillside monastery with Manoj and his wife Alice. It was my favorite monastery that I have visited so far and was so beautiful and peaceful there.

When we got back last night, I went to Kiran's home for dinner with is wife Sushilla and daughter. It was so nice but I wasn't feeling very well so was not very good company, I'm afraid. I couldn't eat much and Sushilla was very concerned that I didn't like the food she prepared. One of those social mishaps that's bound to happen in other cultures and countries I suppose....

Thursday, November 5, 2009

Dolma and Detchen

I have many new friends indeed here in Kathmandu and feel so honored. I love sitting with Dolma, Detchen, Oma-la, the girls Dawa and Miley, baby Tenzin, Auntie Nun, cousin Tsering and another nun, Cherring. After dinner we sit on the floor and talk and watch an Indian soap opera on tv, which is Oma-la's favorite. I wish I could have had a picture of all of us last night, sitting on the floor, laughing and talking and drinking hot wine. Apparently one guest a year ago taught Oma-la the Macarena when they visited and she loves doing it, but wasn't quite in the mood last night. She said she ate too much dinner to dance.

Last night Dawa made me a special dinner that consisted of noodles, fresh tomato soup and MASHED POTATOES!! How in the world did she know how much I love mashed potatoes? They were so delicious. The potatoes themselves are very special and come from a hillside village far away from Kathmandu. I was feeling a little sick yesterday, headache, sore throat but this magic dinner cured me. It was so nice. She said she would make potatoes for me today for lunch before I go check into the monastery guest house. I will come back here on Sunday night to stay once more before I leave for India. I have had such a great time here in Kathmandu.

I am ordering some gorgeous rugs from Dolma to be shipped to me. If anyone is interested in getting in touch with Dolma to have her make and send any size beautiful rug to you, let me know. All the rugs are made here, the yarn is spun and dyed here and they are made with much loving care. They will be very special keepsakes for me in my next home that will commemorate my time here.

Wednesday, November 4, 2009

Thursday

Congrats to my friend Mary who won the vote for a place on the Orem City Council. She'll be great at it.

It's early Thursday morning. The monks are chanting, the incense is burning. That means it's almost time for breakfast.

I had a good day yesterday. Lunch at the clinic with our friend Lucy, an American woman who lives in Kathmandu. Went for a long walk/hike/trek with Manoj and Roseanna up to Kopan Monastery and the neighboring nunnery. It was a beautiful day and a beautiful view from on top of the hill. I love walking through the neighborhoods and seeing how people live.

I don't have much on the agenda today. A little shopping trip for some thank you gifts, maybe. Tomorrow I'll check in to the Shechen Monastery guest house for a couple of days. On Sunday I'll go for a short trek in the countryside with Lucy, which I'm really looking forward to. On Monday I'll fly to Calcutta. I'm glad I'm leaving on Monday because the local news station says that the Maoists are planning on shutting down the city and the airport with demonstrations on Tuesday.
Steven, a teacher at Shechen school and Himay

Tsering making Tibetan noodle soup at the monastery

snowstorm at the monastery


our cozy little room for 5 at the monastery. No heat, lots of blankets!

Tuesday, November 3, 2009

It's Tuesday, I think

I'm getting into such a nice rhythm here in Kathmandu. When I first arrived I was shocked at the poverty, the pollution, the squalor that people are living in, but it is life here and it's vibrant and the feeling is good. People are tremendous in their will and their love for each other. Most homes have no running water and certainly no heat. The children are being washed in tubs in front of their shack homes, next to a chicken or a cow or a goat. Shaggy dogs are plentiful here too. Laundry is all done by hand even in the nicest homes and dries on the rooftops or the sidewalks. Everyone smiles and says "Namaste".

This morning I met up with Roseanna and Sunita at 7 am to go shopping for some clothes. I wanted to buy a Nepali outfit, which is a cotton/rayon sleeveless top that is very long, almost to my knees and is split up the sides. The pants are wonderful, loose harem type pants with a draw string. I could fit 5 people in them.

We got on a rickety old bus that cost us .15 cents to ride and went across town to a clothing place she knows. The colors and the fabrics were just incredible. You can buy it ready-made or you can have something tailor made for you for about $4 more. Because of time constraints, I had to purchase something right away, but I am SO happy with my new outfit. It's a beautiful light blue with gold embroidery/brocade. The pants are tan with the same beautiful brocade work on them. It's a great outfit and cost me about $12 US. I insisted that Sunita get one too and she was so happy. She has worked at the Shechen clinic for 10 years now as a cook and cleaner. She has two children and her husband doesn't work much. She is such a beautiful spirit and a dear friend already.

I went to an award luncheon for a woman who I know through Dick who received a local award for the work she is doing with children's education here in Nepal. It was held at a hotel and I was really happy that I could be there to support her.

I came back and had dinner with Manoj, Roseanna and Sunita near the clinic before coming back to Dolma's. Such a nice group of friends and I was glad to get to spend time with them today.

I have tea and/or dinner each night with Dolma's family, we all play with Tenzin and I come downstairs to my room around 8 pm. It's very sweet. They did a prayer tonight and we were each given a few drops of whiskey in the palm of our hand, then a small piece of dried meat and then a sweet biscuit. I am loving all of this rich, new experience.

I've put on weight in the last 3 weeks, which I'm told is a sign of happiness and prosperity. I feel very happy and very blessed.

Sunday, November 1, 2009

Pilgrims doing prostrations at The Jokhang Temple in Lhasa

Bubba and Scott in Khandig


Me and Susie on the Indiana Jones Adventure Ride







a sign in our hotel bathroom

visiting the Rinpoche at Tibetan Monastery

The Clinic, Roseanna and Olga's

It's Sunday pm here and all is well. I walked over to Shechen Clinic and had lunch with Manoj, Kiran and many of the staff. I also met Roseanna, who had just flown in from Seattle to begin a 3 month position as a staff acupuncturist. She's a wonderful woman, full of life and bubbling with enthusiasm. They are lucky to have her there.

I invited Roseanna to come with me to see Olga Murray's orphanage here in Kathmandu that I've heard so much about. We took a long taxi ride over to meet Som, the wonderful man who helps run the orphanage, and he took us up to J and K houses, as they are called. One for boys and one for girls. It is a lovely place, clean and peaceful and full of children and love. We spent about an hour there which was not nearly long enough. They are just beautiful children and I'm glad they have such a wonderful place to live and grow and thrive.

Our taxi ride back was pretty scary. There was a political demonstration about to start in the streets of Kathmandu and traffic was terrible and police where everywhere. It took over an hour to get back to our neighborhood and we went through some pretty wild places. I wasn't sure where we were going, and am so happy that Roseanna was with me. We made it back to Dolma's house and they took us in and fed us some nice dinner before Roseanna went by taxi back to the clinic. I'll go over and see her tomorrow and see if she has time to do a quick little acupuncture treatment for me. That will be nice.

Roseanna is a kindred spirit. Like me, she put all her stuff in storage, put her American life on hold to come to Nepal for 3 months and then will be going to India for a month. Maybe we'll connect again there.