Thursday, December 31, 2009
Happy 2010! I'm spending new years eve in Agra with my 13 year old traveling partner Daisy. She is Rajans daughter and has never seen the taj mahal so we took a 12 hour train ride to get here. We were so excited and are having a blast. The Taj is everything I ever dreamed it would be. There is a full moon up tonight and I feel very excited for all that the coming year will hold.
Sunday, December 27, 2009
Sarnath and Varanasi
I arrived in Varanasi on December 15th after a grueling 14 hour train ride from Calcutta. I spent the last 13 days here helping at Buddah's Smile School and staying at a guesthouse in Sarnath. It was an interesting experience but I have to say it hasn't been my favorite place to be.
It was the first time that I was staying alone since I began this trip, and Sarnath is a very cold and lonely place to be alone. It's a very small town with nothing going on and no other foreigners. The 3 restaurants in town close by 7 pm and traveling around after dark was sort of dicey so I was always back at my guesthouse by 6 pm. I felt sort of trapped.
My room was cold and I was lucky if there was hot water to bath with. But the owners were very nice and the woman made me breakfast each day of toast and jam, hot tea and fruit. As I ate my breakfast in her kitchen she would sit in front of her alter and do her prayers. I loved watching her as she put fresh flowers in Shiva's little alter house and filled the little cups with water and put a new cloak on the Shiva figure each day. She sprinkled some sort of herb in the water cups and put fruit on the alter too while she burned incense around it. She would hum a beautiful tune as she did this each morning and I looked forward to it.
Now I have come to Varnasi which is just about 7 miles from Sarnath to spend a few days and it's been nice. I booked myself into a nice hotel to get a clean bed with no fleas, a hot shower and some yummy food. I feel rejuvenated again.
In a couple of days I'm going by train to Agra to see the Taj Mahal. I'm taking Rajan's 13 year old daughter Daisy with me. She lives here in India and has never seen the Taj. I'm sure we'll have a lot of fun together and it will be memorable for both of us.
On the 4th I'll travel to Bodh Gaya to hear the teachings of the Dalai Lama. After that I'm not sure which direction I'll go. Either way up north to Dharamsala or down south to Kerala or Ponicherry, then a stop in Calcutta and back up to Delhi to fly home, probably around the end of January.
It's been an incredible trip so far and it's strange to think of winding it up...
It was the first time that I was staying alone since I began this trip, and Sarnath is a very cold and lonely place to be alone. It's a very small town with nothing going on and no other foreigners. The 3 restaurants in town close by 7 pm and traveling around after dark was sort of dicey so I was always back at my guesthouse by 6 pm. I felt sort of trapped.
My room was cold and I was lucky if there was hot water to bath with. But the owners were very nice and the woman made me breakfast each day of toast and jam, hot tea and fruit. As I ate my breakfast in her kitchen she would sit in front of her alter and do her prayers. I loved watching her as she put fresh flowers in Shiva's little alter house and filled the little cups with water and put a new cloak on the Shiva figure each day. She sprinkled some sort of herb in the water cups and put fruit on the alter too while she burned incense around it. She would hum a beautiful tune as she did this each morning and I looked forward to it.
Now I have come to Varnasi which is just about 7 miles from Sarnath to spend a few days and it's been nice. I booked myself into a nice hotel to get a clean bed with no fleas, a hot shower and some yummy food. I feel rejuvenated again.
In a couple of days I'm going by train to Agra to see the Taj Mahal. I'm taking Rajan's 13 year old daughter Daisy with me. She lives here in India and has never seen the Taj. I'm sure we'll have a lot of fun together and it will be memorable for both of us.
On the 4th I'll travel to Bodh Gaya to hear the teachings of the Dalai Lama. After that I'm not sure which direction I'll go. Either way up north to Dharamsala or down south to Kerala or Ponicherry, then a stop in Calcutta and back up to Delhi to fly home, probably around the end of January.
It's been an incredible trip so far and it's strange to think of winding it up...
Saturday, December 26, 2009
Things I've learned in India so far
1) There is such a thing as Indian time, and it means that everything you do takes twice as long as it should. Everything from taking a cab, trying to buy a train ticket, waiting for food in a restaurant...you have to have a lot of patience.
2) Traveling or living in India is hard. The streets are in terrible shape, the trash and pollution are out of control and then of course there is such intense poverty.
3) India is fascinating. There is no way to describe India as a whole. Each place that I have visited is completely different. Different clothes, different language, different food, different people.
4) Indian people are scared. In every home and business there are heavy bars on every window and large metal gates with padlocks. There is a concrete wall around every home and on top of this wall there are shards of sharp, pointed glass or nails so no one can climb over. Every door on the inside has it's own padlock. When anyone leaves a room, they lock it. It's like they think if something is left unlocked for one second, some unseen force is going to rush in and rob them of everything. I haven't quite figured out where this fear stems from.
5) Indian people have the largest hearts (except for taxi and rickshaw drivers). They would give me their last bit of food or tea or their only blanket if it would make me more comfortable.
6) When I have a question or need something from an Indian, the standard answer to everything is "No problem". Indians notoriously tell you what you want to hear. But it comes from a place of good intentions. Unless it's a cab driver or a rickshaw wallah.
I am nowhere near being ready to sum up this experience and won't be for a very long time, but these are a few observations so far...
2) Traveling or living in India is hard. The streets are in terrible shape, the trash and pollution are out of control and then of course there is such intense poverty.
3) India is fascinating. There is no way to describe India as a whole. Each place that I have visited is completely different. Different clothes, different language, different food, different people.
4) Indian people are scared. In every home and business there are heavy bars on every window and large metal gates with padlocks. There is a concrete wall around every home and on top of this wall there are shards of sharp, pointed glass or nails so no one can climb over. Every door on the inside has it's own padlock. When anyone leaves a room, they lock it. It's like they think if something is left unlocked for one second, some unseen force is going to rush in and rob them of everything. I haven't quite figured out where this fear stems from.
5) Indian people have the largest hearts (except for taxi and rickshaw drivers). They would give me their last bit of food or tea or their only blanket if it would make me more comfortable.
6) When I have a question or need something from an Indian, the standard answer to everything is "No problem". Indians notoriously tell you what you want to hear. But it comes from a place of good intentions. Unless it's a cab driver or a rickshaw wallah.
I am nowhere near being ready to sum up this experience and won't be for a very long time, but these are a few observations so far...
Friday, December 25, 2009
Sunday, December 20, 2009
Saturday, December 19, 2009
Sunderbans Part Deux
We met at 6:30 am to begin our trip to the Sunderbans. Our wonderful little group consisted of me, Arnab who works at New Light, his wife Sungita and their 13 year old daughter Pebbles, Tony, Arnab's Scottish nephew, his English girlfriend Ruth and Sophie, an 18 year old volunteer from New York.
It was about a 2.5 hour drive to where we would board the boat and was foggy and beautiful all the way down. We stopped at a village near the jetty to buy some prawns that were the size of baby cats and some fresh crabs as well.
We got loaded into our sweet little boat and we decided that we would be pirates. The Sunderbunions.
The area is beautiful. It was like I imagine the Amazon to look like. Everything was very green and lush. We saw some very large crocodiles, some whistling ducks, many monkeys but alas, no tigers. We stopped to pick up our guide, which is required and to show our passports. After we got back on the boat, my stomach started to rumble and soon it felt like the rock 'em sock 'em robots were having a championship bout in my tummy. I spent the rest of the day and night in the head pooping and puking my brains out. Not fun.
When we got to the island where we stayed we had to walk about 1/4 mile to our little motel and it was the longest walk ever on top of a mud wall that was created after the cyclone. I had a terrible night of being so sick that they talked about flying me out. But luckily by morning I was much better. I stayed behind while everyone went out on the boat to explore other islands and visit people there. Arnab asked the man at the motel to keep an eye on me and he was great. He brought me water and a newspaper. In the afternoon he came to check on me and I had been dead asleep for several hours. He took one look at me and pointed to my hair with a sour look on his face. He didn't speak English but it was clear that he was telling me I should comb my hair. This was so funny.
On the third day we had to leave but we went to another island, Bali where we gave out some blankets and toys for the children. The people were crying with joy as I handed them a new wool blanket that cost less than $1. This was stunning to me and so incredibly touching. I could not stop crying and was so full of emotion. It still blows my mind to see how little it takes to change someone's life here in India. They have so little and we have so much.
I had a wonderful trip to the Sunderbans. I would highly recommend this trip to anyone. It's beautiful and peaceful there and nobody knows about it.
It was about a 2.5 hour drive to where we would board the boat and was foggy and beautiful all the way down. We stopped at a village near the jetty to buy some prawns that were the size of baby cats and some fresh crabs as well.
We got loaded into our sweet little boat and we decided that we would be pirates. The Sunderbunions.
The area is beautiful. It was like I imagine the Amazon to look like. Everything was very green and lush. We saw some very large crocodiles, some whistling ducks, many monkeys but alas, no tigers. We stopped to pick up our guide, which is required and to show our passports. After we got back on the boat, my stomach started to rumble and soon it felt like the rock 'em sock 'em robots were having a championship bout in my tummy. I spent the rest of the day and night in the head pooping and puking my brains out. Not fun.
When we got to the island where we stayed we had to walk about 1/4 mile to our little motel and it was the longest walk ever on top of a mud wall that was created after the cyclone. I had a terrible night of being so sick that they talked about flying me out. But luckily by morning I was much better. I stayed behind while everyone went out on the boat to explore other islands and visit people there. Arnab asked the man at the motel to keep an eye on me and he was great. He brought me water and a newspaper. In the afternoon he came to check on me and I had been dead asleep for several hours. He took one look at me and pointed to my hair with a sour look on his face. He didn't speak English but it was clear that he was telling me I should comb my hair. This was so funny.
On the third day we had to leave but we went to another island, Bali where we gave out some blankets and toys for the children. The people were crying with joy as I handed them a new wool blanket that cost less than $1. This was stunning to me and so incredibly touching. I could not stop crying and was so full of emotion. It still blows my mind to see how little it takes to change someone's life here in India. They have so little and we have so much.
I had a wonderful trip to the Sunderbans. I would highly recommend this trip to anyone. It's beautiful and peaceful there and nobody knows about it.
Thursday, December 17, 2009
Monday, December 14, 2009
Jaded in Calcutta
After a month in Calcutta I feel like I have become jaded. But it's out of necessity. If I let my mind dwell on what I see each day in this city, my head would explode. And then I would go insane.
Last night on my way home, there was the large, twisted body of a dead dog in the road. It had been hit by one of the many vehicles that go screaming by each second. Everyone stepped around it and didn't seem to take much notice.
I asked the rickshaw guy to stop at the little stand near Soma Home so i could buy a pack of Gold Flakes for Godee Mashee. After many years as a prostitute and drug addict, this is her only vice. She usually smokes hand rolled "beedis", so a real cigarette is a treat. She knows I like to have one before I go to sleep so she leaves one cigarette and one match next to my bed.
The next morning one as I walk to meet my friend Arnab, one of the first things I see is a huge black crow eating a rat. They are next to a pile of trash as big as a house. In this pile there are several other crows, 4 cows, 3 dogs and a few children rummaging around for some treats. It looks like all are being successful.
I get into a taxi and at one of the first traffic lights a small girl about seven years old appears at the window. She's holding a baby about eight months old. They both tap on the window and start a song that goes "Aunty, Aunty, one rupee please? Just one rupee please?". I'm sure she's been singing this song since she was very small. They both smile and hold out their hands and continue to tap on the window. They are so beautiful. I just want to open the door and sweep them inside and drive away. But i know they are being watched very carefully. I turn away and pretend to look at the papers in my lap.
At the next light there is man with no arms and a deformed face. "Please, please. A few rupees, please?". I look away.
Still at the next light there is a beautiful mother in a sari with a baby in her arms. She holds out her hand and points to her crying baby. I pretend not to see them. As she walks to the next car, she slaps the baby across the face to make him cry harder. She knocks on the next window. "A few rupees please. For my baby?"
Last night on my way home, there was the large, twisted body of a dead dog in the road. It had been hit by one of the many vehicles that go screaming by each second. Everyone stepped around it and didn't seem to take much notice.
I asked the rickshaw guy to stop at the little stand near Soma Home so i could buy a pack of Gold Flakes for Godee Mashee. After many years as a prostitute and drug addict, this is her only vice. She usually smokes hand rolled "beedis", so a real cigarette is a treat. She knows I like to have one before I go to sleep so she leaves one cigarette and one match next to my bed.
The next morning one as I walk to meet my friend Arnab, one of the first things I see is a huge black crow eating a rat. They are next to a pile of trash as big as a house. In this pile there are several other crows, 4 cows, 3 dogs and a few children rummaging around for some treats. It looks like all are being successful.
I get into a taxi and at one of the first traffic lights a small girl about seven years old appears at the window. She's holding a baby about eight months old. They both tap on the window and start a song that goes "Aunty, Aunty, one rupee please? Just one rupee please?". I'm sure she's been singing this song since she was very small. They both smile and hold out their hands and continue to tap on the window. They are so beautiful. I just want to open the door and sweep them inside and drive away. But i know they are being watched very carefully. I turn away and pretend to look at the papers in my lap.
At the next light there is man with no arms and a deformed face. "Please, please. A few rupees, please?". I look away.
Still at the next light there is a beautiful mother in a sari with a baby in her arms. She holds out her hand and points to her crying baby. I pretend not to see them. As she walks to the next car, she slaps the baby across the face to make him cry harder. She knocks on the next window. "A few rupees please. For my baby?"
Thursday, December 10, 2009
I will be out of touch via email and blog for the next four days while making another trip to the sunderbans to deliver supplies. I look forward to spending a few days with the people there and getting to know how they live and how they are recovering from the devastating cyclone that hit them with no warning back in May.
And I hope to see a few Bengal tigers along the way. From a distance of course. I'll wear a face mask on the back of my head like the villagers do because a tiger won't attack a human from the front. So you have to fool 'em.... I hope.
Wednesday, December 9, 2009
The City of Joy
This journey continues to unfold in the most beautiful ways.
I made a quick decision to go and visit some friends outside of Calcutta on Tuesday at a clinic they run, and it just happened to be the day when one of the most famous men in India was also visiting the clinic that he founded. The streets were lined with people from all the surrounding villages and traffic was at a standstill. There were posters on every tree with the showing the smiling face of Dominique LaPierre and his wife who is also named Dominique. They came to Calcutta 30 years ago when they were young and then back again when he was doing research for the book The City of Joy. They fell in love with the city and the people and have never stopped supporting them.
On this day it was as if the Pope had come to town. Everyone was out in their finest clothes just to get a glimpse of him. Just before he went onstage to speak, I introduced myself and he kindly invited me to spend the next two days with him.
After touring this clinic, he put me in the car with him and a reporter from Holland who is doing a story, and I had a whole hour and a half to talk with him and ask any questions I had. It was so wonderful. He is such a kind and funny man and gives so much to the people here. We drove to another village where we were greeted as before, and then we boarded a medical boat to go out into the Sunderban Islands which were devastated by a cyclone in May of this year. Everyone was out again, blowing on conch shells and doing a wonderful greeting call that I've heard at bellydance festivals and greek festivals. The people looked very different than the other people of India that I've seen. They had more of a tribal look, and their eyes were beautiful and more green.
They sprinkled marigold petals in our hair and draped us with flower leis. All the women bent down and touched first one of my feet and then the other and then we bowed to each other with "namaste". It was all very surreal and one of the most beautiful things I have ever experienced. I was floating through this cloud of the most vivid colors and so many beautiful faces that were all smiling and loving. We delivered blankets, rice, lanterns and juice for each family on this island.
The next day I met Dominique and his party at a hotel and we all loaded up and drove to the Asha Bahvan Center which he also founded. This is an incredible place that serves hundreds of men, women and children but the focus is on developmentally and physically handicapped children.
Again, it was as if the most major celebrity in the world was coming. So many people there to greet us, so many posters. We were told that the people had been waiting for several hours just to get a glimpse of this man.
I saw a poster of Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany's, which was so strange and out of place, and I asked Dominique about it. He said the designer had given him that dress to auction off to bring money to the people of Calcutta. What a great story.
We were taken to a beautifully decorated room for some tea and snacks before we all went onstage in front of at least 1,000 people who were gathered there. There was a very sweet program of dance and poetry and they presented Dominique with a silver rickshaw replica inside of a glass case. Dominique spoke for a few minutes and he also had each of us who were with him say a few words about how we feel about India and the people there. It was such a touching experience for me. I am so happy that I got to say to these people directly how much I love it here and that I will be back to help in any way that I can. I am forever connected to India.
I made a quick decision to go and visit some friends outside of Calcutta on Tuesday at a clinic they run, and it just happened to be the day when one of the most famous men in India was also visiting the clinic that he founded. The streets were lined with people from all the surrounding villages and traffic was at a standstill. There were posters on every tree with the showing the smiling face of Dominique LaPierre and his wife who is also named Dominique. They came to Calcutta 30 years ago when they were young and then back again when he was doing research for the book The City of Joy. They fell in love with the city and the people and have never stopped supporting them.
On this day it was as if the Pope had come to town. Everyone was out in their finest clothes just to get a glimpse of him. Just before he went onstage to speak, I introduced myself and he kindly invited me to spend the next two days with him.
After touring this clinic, he put me in the car with him and a reporter from Holland who is doing a story, and I had a whole hour and a half to talk with him and ask any questions I had. It was so wonderful. He is such a kind and funny man and gives so much to the people here. We drove to another village where we were greeted as before, and then we boarded a medical boat to go out into the Sunderban Islands which were devastated by a cyclone in May of this year. Everyone was out again, blowing on conch shells and doing a wonderful greeting call that I've heard at bellydance festivals and greek festivals. The people looked very different than the other people of India that I've seen. They had more of a tribal look, and their eyes were beautiful and more green.
They sprinkled marigold petals in our hair and draped us with flower leis. All the women bent down and touched first one of my feet and then the other and then we bowed to each other with "namaste". It was all very surreal and one of the most beautiful things I have ever experienced. I was floating through this cloud of the most vivid colors and so many beautiful faces that were all smiling and loving. We delivered blankets, rice, lanterns and juice for each family on this island.
The next day I met Dominique and his party at a hotel and we all loaded up and drove to the Asha Bahvan Center which he also founded. This is an incredible place that serves hundreds of men, women and children but the focus is on developmentally and physically handicapped children.
Again, it was as if the most major celebrity in the world was coming. So many people there to greet us, so many posters. We were told that the people had been waiting for several hours just to get a glimpse of this man.
I saw a poster of Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany's, which was so strange and out of place, and I asked Dominique about it. He said the designer had given him that dress to auction off to bring money to the people of Calcutta. What a great story.
We were taken to a beautifully decorated room for some tea and snacks before we all went onstage in front of at least 1,000 people who were gathered there. There was a very sweet program of dance and poetry and they presented Dominique with a silver rickshaw replica inside of a glass case. Dominique spoke for a few minutes and he also had each of us who were with him say a few words about how we feel about India and the people there. It was such a touching experience for me. I am so happy that I got to say to these people directly how much I love it here and that I will be back to help in any way that I can. I am forever connected to India.
Friday, December 4, 2009
The Andaman Islands
After a wacky Thanksgiving night partying at my first Indian wedding, we boarded an early morning flight for Port Blair in the Andaman Islands off the southern coast of India. It was about a 2.5 hour flight so got some decent nap time.
We went straight to the ferry landing for our 2 hour boat ride to Havelock Island where we planned to stay for 4 nights. We booked the lowest class ticket, which cost us about $4 and were put into a terrible little room at the bottom of the ship with no air, no water or food to be found. We did some exploring and found that we could go up to the top and ride with the lifeboats and it was stunning. We met some great people there and we all dug in our packs to find any scraps of food to share.
Havelock Island is very small and still pretty untouched. We stayed at a simple little "resort" called the Holiday Inn on the beach. I thought that was pretty funny. It was not like any Holiday Inn I've ever seen. The room was basically a cot and a toilet and was on the expensive side at 1000 rupies per night (about $20 US). There was an outdoor restaurant that was pretty good except it took forever to get your food.
The second night we were there we met Haemish Kane, infamous disc jockey and actor from England and his two crazy sisters and niece, Corrine. Haemish was born and raised in India and speaks Hindi perfectly. In fact, he wrote a book on learning Hindi and kindly gave me a signed copy. He is also a travel writer for Lonely Planet and gave me some fantastic suggestions and recommendations. This family was so funny and wild and we laughed until we thought we might puke. We also met Roberto, who is a doctor from Italy and is about as well traveled a man as I've ever met. He was facinating and very funny and fun to hang out with.
On the third day we were there, our whole group went snorkeling on a rickey old wooden boat that took us another 2 hours away to a place called Button Island. It was beautiful there but turned out to be a harrowing experience.
April and I had been snorkeling for about an hour and staying close to each other. When we got tired and thought we might go to the boat, we looked up and realized it was no longer there. What the hell?? There we were in the middle of the Indian Ocean with no life jackets and no fucking boat. The waves were getting bigger and we were getting exhausted and had no idea what to do. We started swimming in one direction, hoping that the boat would be there. Button Island is nothing more than a little piece of rock sticking up out of the ocean, with no way to crawl up on it, so it wasn't much of a comfort, but a little.
Finally a man from the boat came swimming by in his dive gear and asked if we were ok. Duh. No. We were not ok. He told us to follow him, but at this point it was getting difficult because we were so damn tired. The waves kept crashing on top of me and filling my snorkel with salt water. I hate the taste of salt water but swallowed plenty of it that day. As we got close to the boat they thankfully threw a rope out so I could pull myself in. My god, I was so tired. And very pissed off. It ws a long, hot, exhausting day and I'm not sure that I have recovered yet.
In spite of the crazy snorkeling experience, I loved my time at Havelock and would go back in a second. The people were very nice and the beaches were wonderful.
I'm back in Calcutta now and so happy to see the girls at Soma Home. They are very happy to have me back too. I'll stay for 4 days before going up to Varnasi to work at Buddah's Smile School. I'm looking forward to that. I'm not sure where I'll be for Christmas yet or who I'll be with, but it will be alright, I'm sure.
I miss my family and friends tremendously and sometimes get very homesick and sad and want to jump on the first plane and go home. But India and I are not finished yet. I feel like I am just starting to get my travel groove on and there is so much to do and experience here.
Someone said to me before I left "India is Everything". She was right. I came to India to find myself, and guess what? There I am.
We went straight to the ferry landing for our 2 hour boat ride to Havelock Island where we planned to stay for 4 nights. We booked the lowest class ticket, which cost us about $4 and were put into a terrible little room at the bottom of the ship with no air, no water or food to be found. We did some exploring and found that we could go up to the top and ride with the lifeboats and it was stunning. We met some great people there and we all dug in our packs to find any scraps of food to share.
Havelock Island is very small and still pretty untouched. We stayed at a simple little "resort" called the Holiday Inn on the beach. I thought that was pretty funny. It was not like any Holiday Inn I've ever seen. The room was basically a cot and a toilet and was on the expensive side at 1000 rupies per night (about $20 US). There was an outdoor restaurant that was pretty good except it took forever to get your food.
The second night we were there we met Haemish Kane, infamous disc jockey and actor from England and his two crazy sisters and niece, Corrine. Haemish was born and raised in India and speaks Hindi perfectly. In fact, he wrote a book on learning Hindi and kindly gave me a signed copy. He is also a travel writer for Lonely Planet and gave me some fantastic suggestions and recommendations. This family was so funny and wild and we laughed until we thought we might puke. We also met Roberto, who is a doctor from Italy and is about as well traveled a man as I've ever met. He was facinating and very funny and fun to hang out with.
On the third day we were there, our whole group went snorkeling on a rickey old wooden boat that took us another 2 hours away to a place called Button Island. It was beautiful there but turned out to be a harrowing experience.
April and I had been snorkeling for about an hour and staying close to each other. When we got tired and thought we might go to the boat, we looked up and realized it was no longer there. What the hell?? There we were in the middle of the Indian Ocean with no life jackets and no fucking boat. The waves were getting bigger and we were getting exhausted and had no idea what to do. We started swimming in one direction, hoping that the boat would be there. Button Island is nothing more than a little piece of rock sticking up out of the ocean, with no way to crawl up on it, so it wasn't much of a comfort, but a little.
Finally a man from the boat came swimming by in his dive gear and asked if we were ok. Duh. No. We were not ok. He told us to follow him, but at this point it was getting difficult because we were so damn tired. The waves kept crashing on top of me and filling my snorkel with salt water. I hate the taste of salt water but swallowed plenty of it that day. As we got close to the boat they thankfully threw a rope out so I could pull myself in. My god, I was so tired. And very pissed off. It ws a long, hot, exhausting day and I'm not sure that I have recovered yet.
In spite of the crazy snorkeling experience, I loved my time at Havelock and would go back in a second. The people were very nice and the beaches were wonderful.
I'm back in Calcutta now and so happy to see the girls at Soma Home. They are very happy to have me back too. I'll stay for 4 days before going up to Varnasi to work at Buddah's Smile School. I'm looking forward to that. I'm not sure where I'll be for Christmas yet or who I'll be with, but it will be alright, I'm sure.
I miss my family and friends tremendously and sometimes get very homesick and sad and want to jump on the first plane and go home. But India and I are not finished yet. I feel like I am just starting to get my travel groove on and there is so much to do and experience here.
Someone said to me before I left "India is Everything". She was right. I came to India to find myself, and guess what? There I am.
Wednesday, December 2, 2009
Recap of the last 10 days
I'm back in Calcutta after an incredible journey to Darjeeling and the Andaman Islands.
Darjeeling was so sweet. The people who were mostly Nepali and Tibetans were wonderful and beautiful. Literally, they were some of the most beautiful people I have ever seen. Their faces were dark and exotic and exquisite. It's a cute little town and we spent time at the zoo, on Tiger Hill for the sunrise which was astounding, did some hiking and some shopping at the small bazaar where we got beautiful scarves for $2. I loved the little guest house that where we stayed. We spent time with the kids from Norway and Gerry the German and met others along the way. It was cold up there and there was always a warm fire in the living room and hot tea when we got back. The owner and his wife gave us white kata scarves when we left and wished us a peaceful journey. The trip down from the mountains was beautiful. Everything was so lush and green.
When we got back to the Bagdora, we met up with Raj who owns a tea plantation two hours away. We met Raj through Christina, who we met in Calcutta. He picked us up with his car and driver and we made the trip out to the countryside, right on the borders of Bhutan, Nepal and China. Raj owns a 3,000 acre plantation, the biggest in India. He took us on a tour of the grounds as it was getting dark. We went for a stroll through the "gardens" as he calls it, and he asked his driver to follow in the car because there had been a leopard and an elephant spotted on the land that day and we didn't want to meet up with either one in the dark.
When we got back to the beautiful plantation house, he had his servants light a fire and make us rum and cokes and snacks before dinner. We stayed up very late laughing and talking and watching Bollywood dance videos on tv and had an incredile dinner at 11 pm. The next day we went on a longer tour through the plants and through the factory where the tea is processed and packed for shipping. It was facinating. Even though I drink a lot of tea, I never really knew how it was grown and made. Now I do thanks to the Rajmeister.
He is a very wealthy, very giving man. We drove to the airport with him that day and all flew to Calcutta where his main home is. We checked into a fancy hotel where he was hosting a wedding party that evening and he invited us to come. He sent his driver to pick us up and take us shopping so we could buy clothes to wear. Oh my...what a difference from the red light district of Calcutta...
The wedding was great fun, but didn't even get started until close to 10 pm. We left the party at 1 am and it was still rolling. We had to get up at 5 am to catch our flight to the Andaman Islands.
In the interest of not making a post too damn long, I will continue with the Andaman Islands in the next chapter....
Darjeeling was so sweet. The people who were mostly Nepali and Tibetans were wonderful and beautiful. Literally, they were some of the most beautiful people I have ever seen. Their faces were dark and exotic and exquisite. It's a cute little town and we spent time at the zoo, on Tiger Hill for the sunrise which was astounding, did some hiking and some shopping at the small bazaar where we got beautiful scarves for $2. I loved the little guest house that where we stayed. We spent time with the kids from Norway and Gerry the German and met others along the way. It was cold up there and there was always a warm fire in the living room and hot tea when we got back. The owner and his wife gave us white kata scarves when we left and wished us a peaceful journey. The trip down from the mountains was beautiful. Everything was so lush and green.
When we got back to the Bagdora, we met up with Raj who owns a tea plantation two hours away. We met Raj through Christina, who we met in Calcutta. He picked us up with his car and driver and we made the trip out to the countryside, right on the borders of Bhutan, Nepal and China. Raj owns a 3,000 acre plantation, the biggest in India. He took us on a tour of the grounds as it was getting dark. We went for a stroll through the "gardens" as he calls it, and he asked his driver to follow in the car because there had been a leopard and an elephant spotted on the land that day and we didn't want to meet up with either one in the dark.
When we got back to the beautiful plantation house, he had his servants light a fire and make us rum and cokes and snacks before dinner. We stayed up very late laughing and talking and watching Bollywood dance videos on tv and had an incredile dinner at 11 pm. The next day we went on a longer tour through the plants and through the factory where the tea is processed and packed for shipping. It was facinating. Even though I drink a lot of tea, I never really knew how it was grown and made. Now I do thanks to the Rajmeister.
He is a very wealthy, very giving man. We drove to the airport with him that day and all flew to Calcutta where his main home is. We checked into a fancy hotel where he was hosting a wedding party that evening and he invited us to come. He sent his driver to pick us up and take us shopping so we could buy clothes to wear. Oh my...what a difference from the red light district of Calcutta...
The wedding was great fun, but didn't even get started until close to 10 pm. We left the party at 1 am and it was still rolling. We had to get up at 5 am to catch our flight to the Andaman Islands.
In the interest of not making a post too damn long, I will continue with the Andaman Islands in the next chapter....
Saturday, November 28, 2009
I'm here in the paradise of havlock island in south india. No Internet access so am sending via text. Life is great here. I'm spending time with a British family and and a man from italy. I love it here and don't want to leave. Life is very simple and I'm staying in a shack on the beach. I'm very happy and in love with this part of India. Back to Calcutta in a few days. I'll have much more to report when I get back online. Love to all!
Thursday, November 26, 2009
Happy Thanksgiving!
I am missing my friends and family tonight and wish I was with you eating turkey and potatoes. Oh man do I ever wish I was eating turkey and potatoes, stuffing, cranberry sauce, pumpkin pie....
I have already lived Thursday and everyone at home is just getting up and putting the turkey in the oven. I am going to an Indian wedding celebration in Calcutta that starts at 9 pm. I'm in a very fancy hotel and look forward to being one of 400 guests at the party. There are supposed to be Indian dancing girls, good food and WINE. I miss wine too....
I have already lived Thursday and everyone at home is just getting up and putting the turkey in the oven. I am going to an Indian wedding celebration in Calcutta that starts at 9 pm. I'm in a very fancy hotel and look forward to being one of 400 guests at the party. There are supposed to be Indian dancing girls, good food and WINE. I miss wine too....
Sunday, November 22, 2009
New Light India and The Soma Girls
http://www.newlightindia.org/hogar-meridional.html
Please take a few minutes and have a look at the New Light India website. They are doing amazing work in the Calcutta community giving education, healthcare, micro lending and so much more. There are easy links to help out either by volunteering or by donating what you can if you are so inclined. There are also photos of the lovely girls on this link.
Saturday, November 21, 2009
The road to Darjeeling
I am here in the mountains of Darjeeling on a crisp, cold morning. We flew in yesterday afternoon and made arrangements for a jeep to take us up the mountains to this beautiful area. There are many monasteries and you can see the Himalayas from here. It was dark when we got in last night and this morning I woke up to the most gorgeous view from the windows of my simple, sweet (cold!) little room. There has been some political upset here and there have been road closures and strikes the last few days.
We shared our jeep with a nice German fellow named Jerry. We got to know him pretty well after the 4 hour ride, sharing our most embarrassing and interesting travel stories. Jerry is very funny and lives in Singapore and works as a banker. He came and had dinner with us last night at the restaurant here at our little hotel. After dinner we came upstairs to the sitting room where there is a fireplace and it's so cozy. There is a group of Norwegians here who are medical students doing an exchange here in India who are delightful. They played cards and we and drank rum with them until late into the night. It feels so good to be among other travelers and find out more about what's going on in the world. In Calcutta I was very focused on the girls at Soma Home and didn't have much experience beyond that. But the experience was rich and full and I so loved my time with the girls. It was very hard to leave. I bonded with many of them, especially the older ones and we cried when we had to say goodbye. For now. I'll see them again soon and feel very committed to doing what I can to help at New Light India and at Soma Home.
Today we will go and check out Darjeeling and see what's here. There is a Snow Leopard preserve, a zoo, some shops and lots of hiking to be done.
I met a woman in Calcutta named Christina who is very worldly and is a big supporter of New Light and many, many other causes. She is Greek and has lived in Hong Kong and India for many years. She is friends with Angelina Jolie and they do charity work together. She has connections all over the world and told me to call her from anywhere if I need anything at all. That is a nice comfort to have. She also got me in touch with her friend who lives here in Darjeeling and owns a tea plantation. His name is Raj and Raj has invited April and I to come and stay at his plantation for a few days and see what tea production looks like. I am very excited to go and check it out.
We will fly back to Calcutta on the 26th, then out again to the Andaman Islands on the 27th. Back to Calcutta on December 2 where I'll spend a few more days before going up to Varanasi.
This trip has been such an amazing experience so far. I love it. I feel very much alive and vibrant out here in the world, hearing so many languages, seeing so many different kinds of faces. Especially now that I'm not feeling so crappy. There are times when I wonder if this is all really happening, or if it's just a dream. I hope it's the real thing :)
We shared our jeep with a nice German fellow named Jerry. We got to know him pretty well after the 4 hour ride, sharing our most embarrassing and interesting travel stories. Jerry is very funny and lives in Singapore and works as a banker. He came and had dinner with us last night at the restaurant here at our little hotel. After dinner we came upstairs to the sitting room where there is a fireplace and it's so cozy. There is a group of Norwegians here who are medical students doing an exchange here in India who are delightful. They played cards and we and drank rum with them until late into the night. It feels so good to be among other travelers and find out more about what's going on in the world. In Calcutta I was very focused on the girls at Soma Home and didn't have much experience beyond that. But the experience was rich and full and I so loved my time with the girls. It was very hard to leave. I bonded with many of them, especially the older ones and we cried when we had to say goodbye. For now. I'll see them again soon and feel very committed to doing what I can to help at New Light India and at Soma Home.
Today we will go and check out Darjeeling and see what's here. There is a Snow Leopard preserve, a zoo, some shops and lots of hiking to be done.
I met a woman in Calcutta named Christina who is very worldly and is a big supporter of New Light and many, many other causes. She is Greek and has lived in Hong Kong and India for many years. She is friends with Angelina Jolie and they do charity work together. She has connections all over the world and told me to call her from anywhere if I need anything at all. That is a nice comfort to have. She also got me in touch with her friend who lives here in Darjeeling and owns a tea plantation. His name is Raj and Raj has invited April and I to come and stay at his plantation for a few days and see what tea production looks like. I am very excited to go and check it out.
We will fly back to Calcutta on the 26th, then out again to the Andaman Islands on the 27th. Back to Calcutta on December 2 where I'll spend a few more days before going up to Varanasi.
This trip has been such an amazing experience so far. I love it. I feel very much alive and vibrant out here in the world, hearing so many languages, seeing so many different kinds of faces. Especially now that I'm not feeling so crappy. There are times when I wonder if this is all really happening, or if it's just a dream. I hope it's the real thing :)
Wednesday, November 18, 2009
Calcutta Thursday
A quick stop at a dusty little internet cafe off the crazy streets of Calcutta. I am out shopping for some Henna and to refill my cell phone card. I bought some cute little hair bands for all the girls and some chocolate. I am going to check the possibility of ordering pizza tomorrow night before I leave. That will be quite a treat if I can pull it off.
I got up early and went out with some of the girls for some exercise before they went to school. We went several blocks to Elephant Park to do some stretching and walking. It was nice. I love walking the streets with the girls. People are really curious about what this blond American girl is doing with teenage Indian girls. They all stop and stare. When we were at the park we had a nice little crowd on the street staring in at us. It was funny.
Off to Darjeeling on Saturday and looking forward to some clean air and to see more of India.
I got up early and went out with some of the girls for some exercise before they went to school. We went several blocks to Elephant Park to do some stretching and walking. It was nice. I love walking the streets with the girls. People are really curious about what this blond American girl is doing with teenage Indian girls. They all stop and stare. When we were at the park we had a nice little crowd on the street staring in at us. It was funny.
Off to Darjeeling on Saturday and looking forward to some clean air and to see more of India.
Monday, November 16, 2009
India and me
When I arrived in Calcutta, I was feeling like a little bit of a seasoned traveler, having been on the road for a month. Feeling just a little cocky. But that was quickly knocked out of me. Calcutta is unlike any experience I have ever had in life.
Every one of my senses was attacked at once. The smells, the sights, the tastes, the feeling of hot, stickiness on my body, the emotions of trying to process it all. Everything at once. It's all a little too much. I haven't felt well since I've been here and maybe part of it is my body going into survival mode. I feel like there is a hot, heavy blanket over me, over my head. I am exhausted by 2 in the afternoon and need to lay down and rest. My body is not handling the food or water and nothing stays inside for long. I am trying my best to stay hydrated and finding something I can eat, which isn't easy.
I had to go and check myself into a western hotel for a couple of days so I could get some rest and some food. And then grappling with feelings of guilt for doing this, knowing that what I am spending on a hotel could do so much for the girls at Soma Home. As I was laying my my bathtub at the Taj Bengal Hotel, soaking away the dirt and grime and sweat off of my body, I was asking myself what I am doing here in India. Why did I come, what did I think I was going to accomplish?
The answer is that I guess I wanted to test myself in some way. I am newly independent and wanted to know that I have strength to be on my own. I also wanted to help my fellow human beings in the world who need help, and I am in a position to give my time and energy here in India. But I just don't know how much I can do. I wanted to "do" something. To have a goal of teaching English or Yoga and leaving something behind for the girls at Soma Home. I have done some of that, but it doesn't look the way I thought it would and I now realize that that's ok.
I am doing what I am capable of, and that may be just sitting and spending time with the girls. They will remember their time with me and they will remember me in the photos I leave behind. They love having their photos taken and I will get them all printed out so they can keep them.
I feel like the girls have given so much to me and helped me heal some very old wounds. It's a big process. I feel like I have triumphed and I feel like I have failed all at the same time. I am struggling with my role in all of this.
I am refreshed now after a few days break and can go back to Soma Home and be more fully there for the girls before I leave on Saturday. I plan to travel with April Mazzuca, a volunteer here from Canada to Darjeeling and then down to the Andaman Islands before I fly to Varanasi to help at Buddha's Smile School. That will be another tough, emotional gig to be sure.
I am learning a lot about who I am and what I need to do to take care of myself. Some huge-ass lessons learned in India. And much more to come...
Every one of my senses was attacked at once. The smells, the sights, the tastes, the feeling of hot, stickiness on my body, the emotions of trying to process it all. Everything at once. It's all a little too much. I haven't felt well since I've been here and maybe part of it is my body going into survival mode. I feel like there is a hot, heavy blanket over me, over my head. I am exhausted by 2 in the afternoon and need to lay down and rest. My body is not handling the food or water and nothing stays inside for long. I am trying my best to stay hydrated and finding something I can eat, which isn't easy.
I had to go and check myself into a western hotel for a couple of days so I could get some rest and some food. And then grappling with feelings of guilt for doing this, knowing that what I am spending on a hotel could do so much for the girls at Soma Home. As I was laying my my bathtub at the Taj Bengal Hotel, soaking away the dirt and grime and sweat off of my body, I was asking myself what I am doing here in India. Why did I come, what did I think I was going to accomplish?
The answer is that I guess I wanted to test myself in some way. I am newly independent and wanted to know that I have strength to be on my own. I also wanted to help my fellow human beings in the world who need help, and I am in a position to give my time and energy here in India. But I just don't know how much I can do. I wanted to "do" something. To have a goal of teaching English or Yoga and leaving something behind for the girls at Soma Home. I have done some of that, but it doesn't look the way I thought it would and I now realize that that's ok.
I am doing what I am capable of, and that may be just sitting and spending time with the girls. They will remember their time with me and they will remember me in the photos I leave behind. They love having their photos taken and I will get them all printed out so they can keep them.
I feel like the girls have given so much to me and helped me heal some very old wounds. It's a big process. I feel like I have triumphed and I feel like I have failed all at the same time. I am struggling with my role in all of this.
I am refreshed now after a few days break and can go back to Soma Home and be more fully there for the girls before I leave on Saturday. I plan to travel with April Mazzuca, a volunteer here from Canada to Darjeeling and then down to the Andaman Islands before I fly to Varanasi to help at Buddha's Smile School. That will be another tough, emotional gig to be sure.
I am learning a lot about who I am and what I need to do to take care of myself. Some huge-ass lessons learned in India. And much more to come...
Sunday, November 15, 2009
Calcutta and Soma Home
When I asked what India is like, a yoga teacher of mine said to me "India is in your face". He was right.
My first morning at Soma Home, I went upstairs for breakfast, which is eaten on one of the children's beds in a main sleeping room, which also serves as the food prep area and kitchen. The nice women there made me an egg, some rice, some toast and tea.
The 30 or so girls are basically in 3 age groups, small, middle and big girls and all go to school at different times so some are almost always at home. There are just a few hours in the day when all is quiet. I wasn't really sure what I was supposed to do, so after breakfast I went up to the roof to do a little stretching and reflecting amidst the laundry hanging there to dry. All around the neighborhood you can see people cooking outside, babies crying, people talking and bathing outdoors. Smoke and pollution fill the hot, humid air. There is no air conditioning in the house, just fans going all the time. My body is not used to this heat. I always feel sweaty and sticky and dirty.
When the small kids came home from school we read some stories on the roof before having our tea. There is a nice little library there with some great american classic stories. We read a story about Barbie and one Sesame Street book.
The middle and big girls came home later and we talked a lot, they showed me photos of their families and later on we all danced, which we do every night. Dancing is big here and is an important form of communication. The girls showed me an incredible Bengali dance that is the story of the goddess Kali, which Calcutta is named after. They where heavy bells on their ankles and the dance is amazing and beautiful. Then they all sat down and told me to dance for them. I think it was so they could get to know who I am. I'm not sure if they were impressed or not. Probably not :)
Dinner is eaten about 9:30 pm, bedtime at 10. I'm not liking that at all and have not been having dinner the last several nights. It's just too late to eat and too damn hot. And my stomach is not boding well with the food here.
There are several women in the house who take care of the girls and do the cooking and cleaning. There is one woman whos only job is to take care of me, it seems. I call her Godi Mashi, which is Mother in Bengali. She cleans my room and washes my clothes and gets me anything I need. She used to work the streets of Calcutta as a prostitute, I"m told. She doesn't speak any english but she is very funny and we manage to communicate just fine. I feel like I have known her before.
On the second day I was there, I went to New Light, run by the same people who run Soma Home, and is a shelter for the children of the red light district, and is above a brothel. It was very intense. There are some volunteers there from Argentina who were distributing clothing to the kids and I helped with that. It was like Christmas. The kids were so happy to have some new clothes. Even though they were gently used.
In the afternoon, I went with the nurse to the medical clinic called New Light II that serves the lowest caste people in the city. They are the ones who clean the garbage and burn the bodies of the dead. This was probably a bit too much to do so soon after I arrived. It was all just a little too much to process. I have never seen people living like this or even imagined it was possible. The poverty and living conditions are beyond appalling.
I like having my little sanctuary at Soma Home and love the girls so much. They have been through a lot but are so loving and sweet. They always make sure I am served first and given the best portions of everything. I know they like having me there and they keep asking me to stay. They said I should bring Taylor and Julian to live there too.
This whole experience so far is making me take a hard look into my soul and try and answer some pretty deep questions about life. I let you all know if I find some answers here.
My first morning at Soma Home, I went upstairs for breakfast, which is eaten on one of the children's beds in a main sleeping room, which also serves as the food prep area and kitchen. The nice women there made me an egg, some rice, some toast and tea.
The 30 or so girls are basically in 3 age groups, small, middle and big girls and all go to school at different times so some are almost always at home. There are just a few hours in the day when all is quiet. I wasn't really sure what I was supposed to do, so after breakfast I went up to the roof to do a little stretching and reflecting amidst the laundry hanging there to dry. All around the neighborhood you can see people cooking outside, babies crying, people talking and bathing outdoors. Smoke and pollution fill the hot, humid air. There is no air conditioning in the house, just fans going all the time. My body is not used to this heat. I always feel sweaty and sticky and dirty.
When the small kids came home from school we read some stories on the roof before having our tea. There is a nice little library there with some great american classic stories. We read a story about Barbie and one Sesame Street book.
The middle and big girls came home later and we talked a lot, they showed me photos of their families and later on we all danced, which we do every night. Dancing is big here and is an important form of communication. The girls showed me an incredible Bengali dance that is the story of the goddess Kali, which Calcutta is named after. They where heavy bells on their ankles and the dance is amazing and beautiful. Then they all sat down and told me to dance for them. I think it was so they could get to know who I am. I'm not sure if they were impressed or not. Probably not :)
Dinner is eaten about 9:30 pm, bedtime at 10. I'm not liking that at all and have not been having dinner the last several nights. It's just too late to eat and too damn hot. And my stomach is not boding well with the food here.
There are several women in the house who take care of the girls and do the cooking and cleaning. There is one woman whos only job is to take care of me, it seems. I call her Godi Mashi, which is Mother in Bengali. She cleans my room and washes my clothes and gets me anything I need. She used to work the streets of Calcutta as a prostitute, I"m told. She doesn't speak any english but she is very funny and we manage to communicate just fine. I feel like I have known her before.
On the second day I was there, I went to New Light, run by the same people who run Soma Home, and is a shelter for the children of the red light district, and is above a brothel. It was very intense. There are some volunteers there from Argentina who were distributing clothing to the kids and I helped with that. It was like Christmas. The kids were so happy to have some new clothes. Even though they were gently used.
In the afternoon, I went with the nurse to the medical clinic called New Light II that serves the lowest caste people in the city. They are the ones who clean the garbage and burn the bodies of the dead. This was probably a bit too much to do so soon after I arrived. It was all just a little too much to process. I have never seen people living like this or even imagined it was possible. The poverty and living conditions are beyond appalling.
I like having my little sanctuary at Soma Home and love the girls so much. They have been through a lot but are so loving and sweet. They always make sure I am served first and given the best portions of everything. I know they like having me there and they keep asking me to stay. They said I should bring Taylor and Julian to live there too.
This whole experience so far is making me take a hard look into my soul and try and answer some pretty deep questions about life. I let you all know if I find some answers here.
Friday, November 13, 2009
The Soma Home for Girls
Just want to let everyone know that all is well here in Calcutta. As well as it can be, I suppose. Computer access is limited so am not online as much as I'd like.
Life is hard here and I have not quite found my groove. My mind cannot process all that I see and all that I'm going through.
My friend Ingrid asked me why I came on this journey; what I hoped to accomplish and what my goals were. I have been thinking about this a lot and will share my thoughts on my blog soon.
For now I must get ready to go to a performance that the girls are doing to celebrate Children's Day, which is a big deal here.
Last night they were practicing and insisted that I wear a Sari. It was so cool and it too forever to drape me in the fabric. I'll post photos soon.
My love to everyone!
Life is hard here and I have not quite found my groove. My mind cannot process all that I see and all that I'm going through.
My friend Ingrid asked me why I came on this journey; what I hoped to accomplish and what my goals were. I have been thinking about this a lot and will share my thoughts on my blog soon.
For now I must get ready to go to a performance that the girls are doing to celebrate Children's Day, which is a big deal here.
Last night they were practicing and insisted that I wear a Sari. It was so cool and it too forever to drape me in the fabric. I'll post photos soon.
My love to everyone!
Tuesday, November 10, 2009
Reflections on Nepal
Before I get too mezmorized with India, i want to process as well as I can, my experience in Nepal. It was a very important time in this journey. It was a time when I was really on my own after traveling for 2.5 weeks with a large group of people. I cried a lot at that time of change but then quickly got into my own groove.
I made incredible new friends that will last a lifetime and feel very happy about my time there and the places I went and things I saw. But i also learned an important lesson, and that is that I need to take care of myself emotionally a little better.
I went on this journey with my heart wide open. A little too wide it seems. I have found that when my heart is that open, people want something from me because they can see that i am willing to give it. Whether it's money, or time, or making other commitments. I wanted to do it all and I ended up empty. Emotionally and physically. And it made my body out of balance and sick. I'm glad i learned this now because here I am in a country that many times worse than Nepal as far as poverty and people living in terrible conditions and needing help. I want to do as much as I can but still take care of myself. And with the heat and the pollution here it sort of ampliphies everything. I have felt totally run down since i got here. I'm not eating much and am feeling very out of sorts. I"m sleeping a lot too. I hope i'll find my strength and my groove. I am in love with the girls here at Soma Home and am really happy to be here. They are each very special to me already. The women who cook here are very concerned about why I'm not eating more and think I don't like their cooking.
Tomorrow I'm going to visit the Kali Temple with another volunteer from Canada. Her name is April and I think we will make good traveling partners. We will get out of the city next weekend to someplace a little cleaner and quieter, like maybe Darjeeling. I am longing for a really good cheeseburger and a glass of red wine....yum....oh, and some ice cream. Yeah, that would hit the spot.
We're living in pretty meager conditions here at Soma Home. Very basic. All cooking is done on the floor of a bedrrom over a kerosene stove and it's certainly not the most sanitary. I'm scared to death to get sick from the food or water or the mosquitos but so far it's the pollution thats really getting to me. There is something burning in this city all the time, whether it's garbage, dead bodies, tires, who knows....
I made incredible new friends that will last a lifetime and feel very happy about my time there and the places I went and things I saw. But i also learned an important lesson, and that is that I need to take care of myself emotionally a little better.
I went on this journey with my heart wide open. A little too wide it seems. I have found that when my heart is that open, people want something from me because they can see that i am willing to give it. Whether it's money, or time, or making other commitments. I wanted to do it all and I ended up empty. Emotionally and physically. And it made my body out of balance and sick. I'm glad i learned this now because here I am in a country that many times worse than Nepal as far as poverty and people living in terrible conditions and needing help. I want to do as much as I can but still take care of myself. And with the heat and the pollution here it sort of ampliphies everything. I have felt totally run down since i got here. I'm not eating much and am feeling very out of sorts. I"m sleeping a lot too. I hope i'll find my strength and my groove. I am in love with the girls here at Soma Home and am really happy to be here. They are each very special to me already. The women who cook here are very concerned about why I'm not eating more and think I don't like their cooking.
Tomorrow I'm going to visit the Kali Temple with another volunteer from Canada. Her name is April and I think we will make good traveling partners. We will get out of the city next weekend to someplace a little cleaner and quieter, like maybe Darjeeling. I am longing for a really good cheeseburger and a glass of red wine....yum....oh, and some ice cream. Yeah, that would hit the spot.
We're living in pretty meager conditions here at Soma Home. Very basic. All cooking is done on the floor of a bedrrom over a kerosene stove and it's certainly not the most sanitary. I'm scared to death to get sick from the food or water or the mosquitos but so far it's the pollution thats really getting to me. There is something burning in this city all the time, whether it's garbage, dead bodies, tires, who knows....
Monday, November 9, 2009
I'm in India!
I am finally in India. Wow...after all the years I have been thinking about India and all the months of planning...I'm here.
My flight from Kathmanmdu was fine and quick. Got through customs quickly and Arnab was there to meet me. We drove about 45 minutes to get to Soma Home and the girls were all there to meet me. About 30 beautiful faces surrounding me, ranging from age 6 to about 16. They first put a dot of white paint on my forehead, sprinkled marigold petals in my hair, put a marigold lei around my neck, and then put a sugary treat in my mouth and said "Welcome to Soma Home". It was so great.
I was shown my room which is very sweet and small and nicely furnished. My bathroom is next door and has real hot water in the shower. What a treat. i got cleaned up and then was invited upstairs for dinner. They gave me way too much food but it was delicious. The girls are amazing. Most speak English pretty well and they are so curious about me and my life and where I'm from. They are excited to do yoga and practice English and do some sewing and art project together. i feel so happy to be here and I think it will be great.
It's late and I'll go to bed so I can be fresh to see what tomorrow brings. I am feeling much better tonight. I got an accupuncture treatment from Roseanna before leaving Kathmamdu today and some homeopathic medicine from a doctor there.
i cried so much when I had to say goodbye to everyone. But it's all part of the journey...
My flight from Kathmanmdu was fine and quick. Got through customs quickly and Arnab was there to meet me. We drove about 45 minutes to get to Soma Home and the girls were all there to meet me. About 30 beautiful faces surrounding me, ranging from age 6 to about 16. They first put a dot of white paint on my forehead, sprinkled marigold petals in my hair, put a marigold lei around my neck, and then put a sugary treat in my mouth and said "Welcome to Soma Home". It was so great.
I was shown my room which is very sweet and small and nicely furnished. My bathroom is next door and has real hot water in the shower. What a treat. i got cleaned up and then was invited upstairs for dinner. They gave me way too much food but it was delicious. The girls are amazing. Most speak English pretty well and they are so curious about me and my life and where I'm from. They are excited to do yoga and practice English and do some sewing and art project together. i feel so happy to be here and I think it will be great.
It's late and I'll go to bed so I can be fresh to see what tomorrow brings. I am feeling much better tonight. I got an accupuncture treatment from Roseanna before leaving Kathmamdu today and some homeopathic medicine from a doctor there.
i cried so much when I had to say goodbye to everyone. But it's all part of the journey...
Saturday, November 7, 2009
Sick and Tired
As my friend Ginny says, all travel has it's ups and downs. After so much up time, I am now experiencing a big downer. I have been feeling really good on this trip with no concerns, but things are catching up with me now. I have an awful cold and my head feels all dizzy and airy and I can't turn my head very fast. My eyes are dry and red and my throat is scratchy. I think all the Kathmandu dust, dirt and pollution is catching up with me. No wonder so many people cough and spit and are constantly sick here.
I'm at the monastery drinking honey ginger tea and listening to the sounds of the cafe and people talking outside. I am supposed to be going to the monkey temple today with Kiran's wife Sushilla and other friends but wondering if I should cancel everything and go to Dolma's and rest up for my flight tomorrow.
Roseanna and I went to Sunita's home for lunch yesterday and then for a very long trek up to a hillside monastery with Manoj and his wife Alice. It was my favorite monastery that I have visited so far and was so beautiful and peaceful there.
When we got back last night, I went to Kiran's home for dinner with is wife Sushilla and daughter. It was so nice but I wasn't feeling very well so was not very good company, I'm afraid. I couldn't eat much and Sushilla was very concerned that I didn't like the food she prepared. One of those social mishaps that's bound to happen in other cultures and countries I suppose....
I'm at the monastery drinking honey ginger tea and listening to the sounds of the cafe and people talking outside. I am supposed to be going to the monkey temple today with Kiran's wife Sushilla and other friends but wondering if I should cancel everything and go to Dolma's and rest up for my flight tomorrow.
Roseanna and I went to Sunita's home for lunch yesterday and then for a very long trek up to a hillside monastery with Manoj and his wife Alice. It was my favorite monastery that I have visited so far and was so beautiful and peaceful there.
When we got back last night, I went to Kiran's home for dinner with is wife Sushilla and daughter. It was so nice but I wasn't feeling very well so was not very good company, I'm afraid. I couldn't eat much and Sushilla was very concerned that I didn't like the food she prepared. One of those social mishaps that's bound to happen in other cultures and countries I suppose....
Friday, November 6, 2009
Thursday, November 5, 2009
Dolma and Detchen
I have many new friends indeed here in Kathmandu and feel so honored. I love sitting with Dolma, Detchen, Oma-la, the girls Dawa and Miley, baby Tenzin, Auntie Nun, cousin Tsering and another nun, Cherring. After dinner we sit on the floor and talk and watch an Indian soap opera on tv, which is Oma-la's favorite. I wish I could have had a picture of all of us last night, sitting on the floor, laughing and talking and drinking hot wine. Apparently one guest a year ago taught Oma-la the Macarena when they visited and she loves doing it, but wasn't quite in the mood last night. She said she ate too much dinner to dance.
Last night Dawa made me a special dinner that consisted of noodles, fresh tomato soup and MASHED POTATOES!! How in the world did she know how much I love mashed potatoes? They were so delicious. The potatoes themselves are very special and come from a hillside village far away from Kathmandu. I was feeling a little sick yesterday, headache, sore throat but this magic dinner cured me. It was so nice. She said she would make potatoes for me today for lunch before I go check into the monastery guest house. I will come back here on Sunday night to stay once more before I leave for India. I have had such a great time here in Kathmandu.
I am ordering some gorgeous rugs from Dolma to be shipped to me. If anyone is interested in getting in touch with Dolma to have her make and send any size beautiful rug to you, let me know. All the rugs are made here, the yarn is spun and dyed here and they are made with much loving care. They will be very special keepsakes for me in my next home that will commemorate my time here.
Last night Dawa made me a special dinner that consisted of noodles, fresh tomato soup and MASHED POTATOES!! How in the world did she know how much I love mashed potatoes? They were so delicious. The potatoes themselves are very special and come from a hillside village far away from Kathmandu. I was feeling a little sick yesterday, headache, sore throat but this magic dinner cured me. It was so nice. She said she would make potatoes for me today for lunch before I go check into the monastery guest house. I will come back here on Sunday night to stay once more before I leave for India. I have had such a great time here in Kathmandu.
I am ordering some gorgeous rugs from Dolma to be shipped to me. If anyone is interested in getting in touch with Dolma to have her make and send any size beautiful rug to you, let me know. All the rugs are made here, the yarn is spun and dyed here and they are made with much loving care. They will be very special keepsakes for me in my next home that will commemorate my time here.
Wednesday, November 4, 2009
Thursday
Congrats to my friend Mary who won the vote for a place on the Orem City Council. She'll be great at it.
It's early Thursday morning. The monks are chanting, the incense is burning. That means it's almost time for breakfast.
I had a good day yesterday. Lunch at the clinic with our friend Lucy, an American woman who lives in Kathmandu. Went for a long walk/hike/trek with Manoj and Roseanna up to Kopan Monastery and the neighboring nunnery. It was a beautiful day and a beautiful view from on top of the hill. I love walking through the neighborhoods and seeing how people live.
I don't have much on the agenda today. A little shopping trip for some thank you gifts, maybe. Tomorrow I'll check in to the Shechen Monastery guest house for a couple of days. On Sunday I'll go for a short trek in the countryside with Lucy, which I'm really looking forward to. On Monday I'll fly to Calcutta. I'm glad I'm leaving on Monday because the local news station says that the Maoists are planning on shutting down the city and the airport with demonstrations on Tuesday.
It's early Thursday morning. The monks are chanting, the incense is burning. That means it's almost time for breakfast.
I had a good day yesterday. Lunch at the clinic with our friend Lucy, an American woman who lives in Kathmandu. Went for a long walk/hike/trek with Manoj and Roseanna up to Kopan Monastery and the neighboring nunnery. It was a beautiful day and a beautiful view from on top of the hill. I love walking through the neighborhoods and seeing how people live.
I don't have much on the agenda today. A little shopping trip for some thank you gifts, maybe. Tomorrow I'll check in to the Shechen Monastery guest house for a couple of days. On Sunday I'll go for a short trek in the countryside with Lucy, which I'm really looking forward to. On Monday I'll fly to Calcutta. I'm glad I'm leaving on Monday because the local news station says that the Maoists are planning on shutting down the city and the airport with demonstrations on Tuesday.
Tuesday, November 3, 2009
It's Tuesday, I think
I'm getting into such a nice rhythm here in Kathmandu. When I first arrived I was shocked at the poverty, the pollution, the squalor that people are living in, but it is life here and it's vibrant and the feeling is good. People are tremendous in their will and their love for each other. Most homes have no running water and certainly no heat. The children are being washed in tubs in front of their shack homes, next to a chicken or a cow or a goat. Shaggy dogs are plentiful here too. Laundry is all done by hand even in the nicest homes and dries on the rooftops or the sidewalks. Everyone smiles and says "Namaste".
This morning I met up with Roseanna and Sunita at 7 am to go shopping for some clothes. I wanted to buy a Nepali outfit, which is a cotton/rayon sleeveless top that is very long, almost to my knees and is split up the sides. The pants are wonderful, loose harem type pants with a draw string. I could fit 5 people in them.
We got on a rickety old bus that cost us .15 cents to ride and went across town to a clothing place she knows. The colors and the fabrics were just incredible. You can buy it ready-made or you can have something tailor made for you for about $4 more. Because of time constraints, I had to purchase something right away, but I am SO happy with my new outfit. It's a beautiful light blue with gold embroidery/brocade. The pants are tan with the same beautiful brocade work on them. It's a great outfit and cost me about $12 US. I insisted that Sunita get one too and she was so happy. She has worked at the Shechen clinic for 10 years now as a cook and cleaner. She has two children and her husband doesn't work much. She is such a beautiful spirit and a dear friend already.
I went to an award luncheon for a woman who I know through Dick who received a local award for the work she is doing with children's education here in Nepal. It was held at a hotel and I was really happy that I could be there to support her.
I came back and had dinner with Manoj, Roseanna and Sunita near the clinic before coming back to Dolma's. Such a nice group of friends and I was glad to get to spend time with them today.
I have tea and/or dinner each night with Dolma's family, we all play with Tenzin and I come downstairs to my room around 8 pm. It's very sweet. They did a prayer tonight and we were each given a few drops of whiskey in the palm of our hand, then a small piece of dried meat and then a sweet biscuit. I am loving all of this rich, new experience.
I've put on weight in the last 3 weeks, which I'm told is a sign of happiness and prosperity. I feel very happy and very blessed.
This morning I met up with Roseanna and Sunita at 7 am to go shopping for some clothes. I wanted to buy a Nepali outfit, which is a cotton/rayon sleeveless top that is very long, almost to my knees and is split up the sides. The pants are wonderful, loose harem type pants with a draw string. I could fit 5 people in them.
We got on a rickety old bus that cost us .15 cents to ride and went across town to a clothing place she knows. The colors and the fabrics were just incredible. You can buy it ready-made or you can have something tailor made for you for about $4 more. Because of time constraints, I had to purchase something right away, but I am SO happy with my new outfit. It's a beautiful light blue with gold embroidery/brocade. The pants are tan with the same beautiful brocade work on them. It's a great outfit and cost me about $12 US. I insisted that Sunita get one too and she was so happy. She has worked at the Shechen clinic for 10 years now as a cook and cleaner. She has two children and her husband doesn't work much. She is such a beautiful spirit and a dear friend already.
I went to an award luncheon for a woman who I know through Dick who received a local award for the work she is doing with children's education here in Nepal. It was held at a hotel and I was really happy that I could be there to support her.
I came back and had dinner with Manoj, Roseanna and Sunita near the clinic before coming back to Dolma's. Such a nice group of friends and I was glad to get to spend time with them today.
I have tea and/or dinner each night with Dolma's family, we all play with Tenzin and I come downstairs to my room around 8 pm. It's very sweet. They did a prayer tonight and we were each given a few drops of whiskey in the palm of our hand, then a small piece of dried meat and then a sweet biscuit. I am loving all of this rich, new experience.
I've put on weight in the last 3 weeks, which I'm told is a sign of happiness and prosperity. I feel very happy and very blessed.
Sunday, November 1, 2009
The Clinic, Roseanna and Olga's
It's Sunday pm here and all is well. I walked over to Shechen Clinic and had lunch with Manoj, Kiran and many of the staff. I also met Roseanna, who had just flown in from Seattle to begin a 3 month position as a staff acupuncturist. She's a wonderful woman, full of life and bubbling with enthusiasm. They are lucky to have her there.
I invited Roseanna to come with me to see Olga Murray's orphanage here in Kathmandu that I've heard so much about. We took a long taxi ride over to meet Som, the wonderful man who helps run the orphanage, and he took us up to J and K houses, as they are called. One for boys and one for girls. It is a lovely place, clean and peaceful and full of children and love. We spent about an hour there which was not nearly long enough. They are just beautiful children and I'm glad they have such a wonderful place to live and grow and thrive.
Our taxi ride back was pretty scary. There was a political demonstration about to start in the streets of Kathmandu and traffic was terrible and police where everywhere. It took over an hour to get back to our neighborhood and we went through some pretty wild places. I wasn't sure where we were going, and am so happy that Roseanna was with me. We made it back to Dolma's house and they took us in and fed us some nice dinner before Roseanna went by taxi back to the clinic. I'll go over and see her tomorrow and see if she has time to do a quick little acupuncture treatment for me. That will be nice.
Roseanna is a kindred spirit. Like me, she put all her stuff in storage, put her American life on hold to come to Nepal for 3 months and then will be going to India for a month. Maybe we'll connect again there.
I invited Roseanna to come with me to see Olga Murray's orphanage here in Kathmandu that I've heard so much about. We took a long taxi ride over to meet Som, the wonderful man who helps run the orphanage, and he took us up to J and K houses, as they are called. One for boys and one for girls. It is a lovely place, clean and peaceful and full of children and love. We spent about an hour there which was not nearly long enough. They are just beautiful children and I'm glad they have such a wonderful place to live and grow and thrive.
Our taxi ride back was pretty scary. There was a political demonstration about to start in the streets of Kathmandu and traffic was terrible and police where everywhere. It took over an hour to get back to our neighborhood and we went through some pretty wild places. I wasn't sure where we were going, and am so happy that Roseanna was with me. We made it back to Dolma's house and they took us in and fed us some nice dinner before Roseanna went by taxi back to the clinic. I'll go over and see her tomorrow and see if she has time to do a quick little acupuncture treatment for me. That will be nice.
Roseanna is a kindred spirit. Like me, she put all her stuff in storage, put her American life on hold to come to Nepal for 3 months and then will be going to India for a month. Maybe we'll connect again there.
Saturday, October 31, 2009
Walking in Kathmandu
I walked down to the Bouddenath Stupa today and a nice monk started talking to me and we walked around the stupa three times together and did some simple chanting. He said a prayer for me and my family and gave me a little red blessing cord before I went on my way.
Tonight I went for a long trek with Detchen, through neighborhoods and backroads that I never would have seen on my own. We wound our way up to the top of a very steep hill and arrived at the Kopan Monastery just as the sun was setting and a nice 3/4 moon was high in the sky. It is a beautiful, large monastery overlooking the whole Kathmandu valley. There were monks of all ages, a small restaurant, an internet cafe and the grounds were incredible. I will look forward to going back one of these mornings when the monks chant and do their prayers in the temple. We thought we may have to spend the night because it was so dark and there are no taxis up there, but a nice man gave us a ride down the hill and dropped us close to home.
When we got back, I sat with the sisters Detchen and Dolma in the garden and drank homemade warm wine, we ate noodles and laughed until our bellies and our faces hurt. Life is pretty great here.
Tomorrow I will see my friends at the clinic for lunch and meet Som and Sajani in the afternoon.
Happy Halloween to everyone back home!
Tonight I went for a long trek with Detchen, through neighborhoods and backroads that I never would have seen on my own. We wound our way up to the top of a very steep hill and arrived at the Kopan Monastery just as the sun was setting and a nice 3/4 moon was high in the sky. It is a beautiful, large monastery overlooking the whole Kathmandu valley. There were monks of all ages, a small restaurant, an internet cafe and the grounds were incredible. I will look forward to going back one of these mornings when the monks chant and do their prayers in the temple. We thought we may have to spend the night because it was so dark and there are no taxis up there, but a nice man gave us a ride down the hill and dropped us close to home.
When we got back, I sat with the sisters Detchen and Dolma in the garden and drank homemade warm wine, we ate noodles and laughed until our bellies and our faces hurt. Life is pretty great here.
Tomorrow I will see my friends at the clinic for lunch and meet Som and Sajani in the afternoon.
Happy Halloween to everyone back home!
Friday, October 30, 2009
Good morning sunshine
If I sleep too long, my adopted mother, Oma-la in Kathamandu comes to wake me and says to me in Tibetan, "Time to get up. The sun is in your butt!"
She's so great. She is always saying funny things and has a wonderful sense of humor, just like my mom. She is always concerned about time. I told her that she and my dad would get along great :)
She's so great. She is always saying funny things and has a wonderful sense of humor, just like my mom. She is always concerned about time. I told her that she and my dad would get along great :)
Thursday, October 29, 2009
And then there was one....
Just got back from taking Susie to the Kathmandu airport for her flight home. Our group of 10 slowly dwindled down with Bubba, Scott and D'arcy leaving us in Chengdu, and saying goodbye to Tsering and Himay in Lhasa. Dick, Ann and Beth left this morning and now Susie tonight. Wow. Strange. I have felt so emotional the last few days and am moved to tears so easily. I feel like I want to sleep for a week. But in between sleeping, I will visit some friends here in Kathmandu, go and help out at the clinic and do some more sightseeing. I hope to sit with the nuns again too. Yesterday as they were chanting, I sat with them and it was a truly amazing experience. They play a drum, blow on horns, and throw grains of rice as offerings to the spirits. Very foreign and new to me but it felt so good to be in the room with them. It felt like having a little spiritual shower.
Before Susie left, we had fresh tomato soup that Dawa made with Oma-La's help (that's Dolma's mom). She has a great sense of humor and was giving us a bad time for not leaving for the airport sooner. Dolma's sister Detchen arrived yesterday from India and will be here for 3 weeks before going back to her home in Colorado where she runs a Tibetan imports store.
Susie and I had a fun day exploring the Tamal area of Kathmandu and visiting the largest Hindu temple in the world (so we're told). It sits at the beginning of the Ganges river, and they bring their dead to be burned there. It was a whole new experience for us. It was beautiful in its own way. There were monkeys hanging around the temple that freaked me out a little and very persistent women who wanted us to buy necklaces from them.
Before Susie left, we had fresh tomato soup that Dawa made with Oma-La's help (that's Dolma's mom). She has a great sense of humor and was giving us a bad time for not leaving for the airport sooner. Dolma's sister Detchen arrived yesterday from India and will be here for 3 weeks before going back to her home in Colorado where she runs a Tibetan imports store.
Susie and I had a fun day exploring the Tamal area of Kathmandu and visiting the largest Hindu temple in the world (so we're told). It sits at the beginning of the Ganges river, and they bring their dead to be burned there. It was a whole new experience for us. It was beautiful in its own way. There were monkeys hanging around the temple that freaked me out a little and very persistent women who wanted us to buy necklaces from them.
Wednesday, October 28, 2009
Dolma's house and the nuns
I am here at Dolma's beautiful haven in the middle of Kathmandu. There are about 15 Tibetan nuns who live here too and they are singing and chanting and playing a drum as I type. They dress like monks and shave their heads. Incense is heavy in the air. The nuns wash my shoes at night while I sleep and serve tea and toast in the morning. Dolma's mother is here to help too and well as Dawa, a girl of about 18 who helps with the household and baby Tenzin. She's beautful and sweet. I will stay here for the next few days and write and read and process all that has happened so far. Which is a LOT!
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
Kathmandu
Yay! I can blog again. It was strange to not have access while in China. Something I did not expect.
I am in Kathmandu at my new friend Dolma's home, where Susie and I are staying. She is a friend of Dick Grace and is one of the kindest women I have ever met. She has a nice big home and a rug factory here. She used to run a kindergarten too, but had to put that on hold for a while. She has a beautiful little son named Tenzin who is a little older than Julian so I can get a little bit of the baby love I'm missing. He's adorable.
My first impression of Kathmandu was of being overwhelmed by the traffic, the noise, the people, the pollution. It's pretty crazy, but I am keeping myself open to everything and there is beauty all around.
We went to visit the Setchen Clinic today and it was a dream for me to see it in person. Dick and Beth both were instrumental in creating this free clinic for the people of Kathmandu and it is so well run, so clean and so full of love. It was wonderful to see my friends Manosh and Kiran who work there. I haven't seen them since they came to San Francisco earlier this year, when they were both honored at our Unsung Heroes event. It was great to see them in action and know that they truly are heroes. We were so giddy and happy to see each other.
We went to dinner with other friends, Dominique, Dr. Anil and some new friends and it was lovely. Now going to turn in before another big day tomorrow. We will visit another hospital and a school for disabled kids. My heart is so full from all that I have experienced on this trip. It's absolutely amazing. I dont know how I got so lucky.
I am in Kathmandu at my new friend Dolma's home, where Susie and I are staying. She is a friend of Dick Grace and is one of the kindest women I have ever met. She has a nice big home and a rug factory here. She used to run a kindergarten too, but had to put that on hold for a while. She has a beautiful little son named Tenzin who is a little older than Julian so I can get a little bit of the baby love I'm missing. He's adorable.
My first impression of Kathmandu was of being overwhelmed by the traffic, the noise, the people, the pollution. It's pretty crazy, but I am keeping myself open to everything and there is beauty all around.
We went to visit the Setchen Clinic today and it was a dream for me to see it in person. Dick and Beth both were instrumental in creating this free clinic for the people of Kathmandu and it is so well run, so clean and so full of love. It was wonderful to see my friends Manosh and Kiran who work there. I haven't seen them since they came to San Francisco earlier this year, when they were both honored at our Unsung Heroes event. It was great to see them in action and know that they truly are heroes. We were so giddy and happy to see each other.
We went to dinner with other friends, Dominique, Dr. Anil and some new friends and it was lovely. Now going to turn in before another big day tomorrow. We will visit another hospital and a school for disabled kids. My heart is so full from all that I have experienced on this trip. It's absolutely amazing. I dont know how I got so lucky.
Sunday, October 25, 2009
Three days in Lhasa. Potala palace, Jokhang temple , sweet little hotel room. It's different than I imagined. I feel sad here but glad I could experience it. I ve met famous tibetan artists a famous novelist and visited the school from the film "blindsight'. I feel very blessed and lucky to be on this journey. Kathmandu early tomorrow morning.
Friday, October 23, 2009
We had a wonderful couple of days in chengdu resting in a real bed, having running water and a flush toilet. I had some mashed potatoes yesterday and they were the best ever. We went to the panda preserve and out for Indian food last night. Now at the airport waiting for our flight to Lhasa. I'm so excited to see this place. I'm feeling a little rundown and tired from the fast pace but I'll catch up one of these days.
Wednesday, October 21, 2009
We are back from the far outback of Tibet. Spending the night in Luding about 5 hours outside of Chengdu. It's been a wild, wild adventure. Ive been to 14,000 feet and back, dined in tibetan homes, had tea with officials in monestaries, survived a snowstorm and 50 hours in a car with my new best friends. i never want to eat yak meat again Still unable to post except via text. Hope to write more and post photos once I'm in Nepal. Sending lots of love to all back home.
Sunday, October 18, 2009
We are at Shechen monestary in Tibet. I never knew the meaning of the word remote until now. We are so far from anything. The monks keep the fire going and make sure we have what we need. It is snowing here at 13,000 feet. I wonder if we will be able to leave tomorrow. I am having such a great adventure. I have never felt more alive.
Saturday, October 17, 2009
Tuesday, October 13, 2009
We met the rest of our group last night that we will be spending the next 18 days with. Dick and Ann who are responsible for us being here, Dicks dear friend Bubba from Atlanta, another friend Beth from california, Tsering, a beautiful Tibetan woman who I've met twice before and Scott and Darcy will arrive tomorrow.
Monday, October 12, 2009
Hong Kong: Chasing the morning and losing a day
We're here in Hong Kong after 14.5 hours in a huge hunk of steel hurtling through time and space. It was strange to not see any sort of light in the sky until now. We feel like time travelers. It's now 7:20 am on Tuesday here. But it's really 4:20 pm on Monday in California.
We had a good flight with little sleep, lots of movies and ok food. We'll hang out in Hong Kong for a few hours before we get on a Dragon Air flight to Chengdu.
Oh, look, there's a Burger King and a Starbucks to keep us occupied. :) And free wifi. And a long walk around the airport please.
We had a good flight with little sleep, lots of movies and ok food. We'll hang out in Hong Kong for a few hours before we get on a Dragon Air flight to Chengdu.
Oh, look, there's a Burger King and a Starbucks to keep us occupied. :) And free wifi. And a long walk around the airport please.
Sunday, October 11, 2009
Today's the day
It was my last night in my temporary home at Sabrina's, which has been so wonderful. I stayed up way too late. Too giddy and excited to sleep. Her husband Gerry made me a delicious breakfast this morning. It was so sweet. Salmon, onion and caper omelet, potatoes, toast, yummy hot coffee with cream. We had a nice visit. I am wishing him the best on the challenges he's about to face with a medical procedure next week.
I'll finish packing, printing out what I need to on the computer, run some things up to my storage unit, pick up a few last minutes items to pack and will be ready to head to the airport with Susie later tonight. We are like a couple of school girls. So excited!
I've been feeling very emotional the last few days. No matter what happens on this trip, I think my life as I know it right now is finished. I huge chapter is coming to a close and I'm about open a new one. The way that I view the world will be different after today. It's so exciting to open new doors!
I'll finish packing, printing out what I need to on the computer, run some things up to my storage unit, pick up a few last minutes items to pack and will be ready to head to the airport with Susie later tonight. We are like a couple of school girls. So excited!
I've been feeling very emotional the last few days. No matter what happens on this trip, I think my life as I know it right now is finished. I huge chapter is coming to a close and I'm about open a new one. The way that I view the world will be different after today. It's so exciting to open new doors!
Saturday, October 10, 2009
Saturday
Oh my god. How did it get to be Saturday already? That means I leave tomorrow. Yikes!
I feel like I have a lot to do, but it will all get done, for sure. One of the things I need to do is go for a long walk. I have not been taking the time to exercise lately and I sure do feel it. I want to walk in my favorite places here in Marin before I go.
Either the 4 mile round trip walk to Tennessee Beach, or Ring Mountain, or Sausalito. Tomorrow I'll go to Cascade Falls, among the Redwood trees and see what wisdom they have to impart. I have a certain place that I sit in the center of 3 tall old Redwoods and I get my questions answered there.
I have stayed up so late the last few nights attending parties and film screenings that are part of the Mill Valley Film Festival. It's been very fun to see all my old friends that I used to work with, got to see Clive Owen in person (very nice!) and attend 3 really wonderful parties. I figure I can get caught up on my sleep during the 14 hour flight to Hong Kong tomorrow night :)
I feel like I have a lot to do, but it will all get done, for sure. One of the things I need to do is go for a long walk. I have not been taking the time to exercise lately and I sure do feel it. I want to walk in my favorite places here in Marin before I go.
Either the 4 mile round trip walk to Tennessee Beach, or Ring Mountain, or Sausalito. Tomorrow I'll go to Cascade Falls, among the Redwood trees and see what wisdom they have to impart. I have a certain place that I sit in the center of 3 tall old Redwoods and I get my questions answered there.
I have stayed up so late the last few nights attending parties and film screenings that are part of the Mill Valley Film Festival. It's been very fun to see all my old friends that I used to work with, got to see Clive Owen in person (very nice!) and attend 3 really wonderful parties. I figure I can get caught up on my sleep during the 14 hour flight to Hong Kong tomorrow night :)
Thursday, October 8, 2009
Sea Level
I am back in California after such a great trip to see my family. The night before I left, Taylor and Dylan cooked a delicious Indian food meal that we all shared and then we settled in to watch Slumdog Millionaire. It is such a good movie but I think it made my mom and dad a little nervous to think that I'm going to such an intense place.
I'm back at Sabrina's in Mill Valley for a few days before leaving on Sunday. I have loved my time here. The comfy bed, the way her home smells, the view of the San Francisco bay from the deck, hot tea in the morning, Diamond the cat wanting her breakfast. It has been very much a home to me for the last month and I so appreciate being here.
I have to go into San Francisco today to pick up my Chinese and India visas, get some travel $$ and finish packing. I'll go to some of the events of the Mill Valley film festival over the weekend, take my car to Petaluma on Sunday, where it will live for 3 months and then Susie and I will head to the airport Sunday night.
The butterflies in my stomach are awake and fluttering....
I'm back at Sabrina's in Mill Valley for a few days before leaving on Sunday. I have loved my time here. The comfy bed, the way her home smells, the view of the San Francisco bay from the deck, hot tea in the morning, Diamond the cat wanting her breakfast. It has been very much a home to me for the last month and I so appreciate being here.
I have to go into San Francisco today to pick up my Chinese and India visas, get some travel $$ and finish packing. I'll go to some of the events of the Mill Valley film festival over the weekend, take my car to Petaluma on Sunday, where it will live for 3 months and then Susie and I will head to the airport Sunday night.
The butterflies in my stomach are awake and fluttering....
Monday, October 5, 2009
The Wright Family
I'm so glad to be in Utah with my darling family. My mom and dad and brother Jeff picked me up from the airport. We all had a good visit on the hour drive to moms house. My sister and her wacky dog Coco were there. I haven't seem Teresa in over a year. She's closest to me in age out of my 5 siblings. We slept in the guest room in our old twin beds that my mom has had for a hundred years. (not literally but probably close).
On satuday the rest of the crew arrived. My daughter, her boyfriend Dylan, the amazing Julian (my grandson), sister Lisa, brother Mike, mom, dad, various nieces, nephews and friends. 13 of us in all.
We had a great time catching up, laughing at Mikes jokes and enjoying he and Jeffs bald heads, eating chili, chicken noodle soup, yummy bread, funeral potatoes ( for anyone who hasn't had funeral potatoes, they are the most comforting, delicious things ever). I am so lucky to have the family that I do. We are all supportive and sweet with each other and we really LIKE each other. That's pretty cool.
I got to spend some quality Grammy time with julian last night and tonight. He's getting so big and beautiful and curious about the world around him. I have always felt a special bond with him. We understand each other even though he's just over a year old.
Today my mom and sister and I got out some old quilt blocks that my grandma had made and that Lisa and mom made. They showed me some different ways of making quilts so I can show it to the women at the school in Calcutta who are making quilts out of recycled saris. I would love it if we can incorporate some of these ideas and quilt blocks into theirs.
On satuday the rest of the crew arrived. My daughter, her boyfriend Dylan, the amazing Julian (my grandson), sister Lisa, brother Mike, mom, dad, various nieces, nephews and friends. 13 of us in all.
We had a great time catching up, laughing at Mikes jokes and enjoying he and Jeffs bald heads, eating chili, chicken noodle soup, yummy bread, funeral potatoes ( for anyone who hasn't had funeral potatoes, they are the most comforting, delicious things ever). I am so lucky to have the family that I do. We are all supportive and sweet with each other and we really LIKE each other. That's pretty cool.
I got to spend some quality Grammy time with julian last night and tonight. He's getting so big and beautiful and curious about the world around him. I have always felt a special bond with him. We understand each other even though he's just over a year old.
Today my mom and sister and I got out some old quilt blocks that my grandma had made and that Lisa and mom made. They showed me some different ways of making quilts so I can show it to the women at the school in Calcutta who are making quilts out of recycled saris. I would love it if we can incorporate some of these ideas and quilt blocks into theirs.
Saturday, October 3, 2009
I had a lovely night and morning volunteering at a fundraiser in Glenn Ellen in sonoma. The fall colors in the wine country just can't be beat.
It was a bright, almost full moon last night over the grape vines and after a glass of nice Cabernet I felt like running naked through them. But I didn't. Am now in LA waiting for my fight to Salt lake city. Can't wait to see my family!
It was a bright, almost full moon last night over the grape vines and after a glass of nice Cabernet I felt like running naked through them. But I didn't. Am now in LA waiting for my fight to Salt lake city. Can't wait to see my family!
Friday, October 2, 2009
Pre travel travel
I'm off to the wine country today to do a couple of volunteer shifts for my favorite Bay area non profit, Bread & Roses.
Tomorrow I will go from Glen Ellen to the Oakland airport to fly to Utah to see my family before taking off for Asia. My mom and dad, sisters, brothers, daughter and my beautiful grandson Julian. We get together at this time of year between Halloween and Thanksgiving and we call our celebration Thanks-a-weenie. It's so much fun. My family is so wonderful and supportive and we have a great time together.
Tomorrow I will go from Glen Ellen to the Oakland airport to fly to Utah to see my family before taking off for Asia. My mom and dad, sisters, brothers, daughter and my beautiful grandson Julian. We get together at this time of year between Halloween and Thanksgiving and we call our celebration Thanks-a-weenie. It's so much fun. My family is so wonderful and supportive and we have a great time together.
Wednesday, September 30, 2009
What happens when I come back?
I have been asked this question several times. The answer is that I have no idea. In fact, I don't really know WHEN I'm coming back. Everything is in storage, I have no office to go to, no apartment, no pets. The plants are in foster homes.
I'm thinking maybe I'll buy a little ice cream truck when I get back and hang out in beautiful places. Organic ice cream of course. Ice cream just makes everyone so happy.
I wonder if I could pay the rent with the income from an organic ice cream truck. I don't know...just thinkin'... :)
I'm thinking maybe I'll buy a little ice cream truck when I get back and hang out in beautiful places. Organic ice cream of course. Ice cream just makes everyone so happy.
I wonder if I could pay the rent with the income from an organic ice cream truck. I don't know...just thinkin'... :)
Blessings
I am so amazed at the amount of love and support that is surrounding this journey.
Thank you to my dear family and friends who are sending me along with so much good juju!
It's tucked away in my luggage and in my heart and I'll be able to pull it out when I need it.
Almost time to close my eyes and jump. (wheee!)
Thank you to my dear family and friends who are sending me along with so much good juju!
It's tucked away in my luggage and in my heart and I'll be able to pull it out when I need it.
Almost time to close my eyes and jump. (wheee!)
Monday, September 28, 2009
The Marin Independent Journal
A nice little write up in our local paper, thanks to my friend Debbie, who called and told them about my trip...
Volunteer going to India, Nepal and Tibet
Staff Report
Posted: 09/27/2009 11:12:21 PM PDT
Longtime Marin volunteer Christine Wright, 46, of Mill Valley will depart for India, Nepal and Tibet on Oct. 12 to assist organizations helping Third World children. Her three-month trip is sponsored by the St. Helena-based nonprofit Wisdom in Action.
Wright will spend November at the Soma Home for Girls in Kolkata, India, where she will teach students English and yoga. She also will teach English at the Buddha's Smile School in Varanasi, which offers primary education to children from slums in northern India.
People wishing to contribute to the effort can do so directly through the Web site for each school. Contact the Soma Home for Girls at www.newlightindia.org and Buddha's Smile School at www.buddhas-smile-school.org.
Palo Alto-based Amistad International also accepts donations for both schools at www.amistad international.org
To contact Wright, call 497-6561 or send e-mail to chriswright200@yahoo.com.
Volunteer going to India, Nepal and Tibet
Staff Report
Posted: 09/27/2009 11:12:21 PM PDT
Longtime Marin volunteer Christine Wright, 46, of Mill Valley will depart for India, Nepal and Tibet on Oct. 12 to assist organizations helping Third World children. Her three-month trip is sponsored by the St. Helena-based nonprofit Wisdom in Action.
Wright will spend November at the Soma Home for Girls in Kolkata, India, where she will teach students English and yoga. She also will teach English at the Buddha's Smile School in Varanasi, which offers primary education to children from slums in northern India.
People wishing to contribute to the effort can do so directly through the Web site for each school. Contact the Soma Home for Girls at www.newlightindia.org and Buddha's Smile School at www.buddhas-smile-school.org.
Palo Alto-based Amistad International also accepts donations for both schools at www.amistad international.org
To contact Wright, call 497-6561 or send e-mail to chriswright200@yahoo.com.
Friday, September 25, 2009
A lovely weekend
i had a beautiful drive north up the california coast today. I'm happily tucked in to my sweet little room at the whitegate b& b. I love the 4 poster bed that I have to have a stepper stool to reach. Once I get up here, there's a feather bed and a zillion pillows. I just may not get out of this bed ever again. I wonder if they'll bring my coffee and eggs here :)
I'll go for a nice long hike along the ocean in the morning before getting ready for the wedding of a friend. It's a great weekend so far!
Thursday, September 24, 2009
Finality
After a year and a half of separation from my darling husband, Bruce, we signed our final divorce papers today. We are both very sad. We'll have dinner together on Monday and talk some more.
Life takes us in so many different directions but it's all exactly the way it's supposed to be.
I have to remember to ride the current of my life and not try to battle it upstream.
Life takes us in so many different directions but it's all exactly the way it's supposed to be.
I have to remember to ride the current of my life and not try to battle it upstream.
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
Eat Pray Love
I'm going to hear Elizabeth Gilbert speak this week. So appropriate before I begin this big adventure.
I remember the first time I saw the book at my favorite local bookstore. It literally jumped off the shelf at me and when I read the back cover I knew I had to have it.
I loved the way she shared her experience with so much humor and grace. I look forward to hearing what she has to say and about her new book.
I remember the first time I saw the book at my favorite local bookstore. It literally jumped off the shelf at me and when I read the back cover I knew I had to have it.
I loved the way she shared her experience with so much humor and grace. I look forward to hearing what she has to say and about her new book.
Wednesday, September 16, 2009
That's the ticket...
I booked my plane tickets today. It's really real now.
SF to Chengdu
Chengdu to Lhasa
Lhasa to Kathmandu
Kathmandu to Calcutta
New Delhi to SF (in January, 2010!)
Whahoooo!
SF to Chengdu
Chengdu to Lhasa
Lhasa to Kathmandu
Kathmandu to Calcutta
New Delhi to SF (in January, 2010!)
Whahoooo!
Saturday, September 12, 2009
September 12 - One month to launch
I'm loving being here in Mill Valley and the days are delicious. I am spending time with friends, going to lots of yoga classes, many peaceful walks and putting things together for my trip. I am talking to as many people as I can and soaking in information from people who have been to India and Nepal. I haven't been able to find many people who have been to Tibet, but that's ok. I am totally open to what this trip will hold for me and even with lots of information, this trip and the experience will be uniquely mine.
Last night there was the most intense lightening storm I think I have ever seen. The whole house was shaking with energy and light. It was beautiful and dramatic.
Last night there was the most intense lightening storm I think I have ever seen. The whole house was shaking with energy and light. It was beautiful and dramatic.
Saturday, September 5, 2009
Old Digs and New Digs
I finally got moved out of my funky apartment at 445 Sausalito Street in Corte Madera that I've been in for a year, and away from the crazy landlady, Tiffany O'hara. She did everything she could to make this transition difficult for me. And I fear that I'm not done yet. She already told me that she plans to keep some of my deposit money so we'll probably end up in small claims court. Damn. Bummer to have to think about necessary stuff like this.
I am staying with my friend Sabrina in her beautiful home in Mill Valley. It's so peaceful and tranquil here and I'm resting comfortably before launch.
It's been a busy weekend so far. Went on a full moon cruise on San Francisco cruise last night with my friend Susie. It was amazing. Today slept late, read for a while (The Art of Racing in the Rain - I highly recommend it), coffee with Debbie, then to Sausalito Arts Festival to see the band Night Ranger from the '80's with Christy. It was a whole lot of fun.
Tomorrow will go to the Homestead Valley Music Festival or the Drakes Beach San Sculpture contest. So many events, so little time. I love the Bay area!
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